Monday, May 27, 2013

In Portsmouth awaiting haul out

HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY FROM NORFOLK, VIRGINIA
THE BATTLESHIP WISCONSIN
 
I left Camden early yesterday(around 0615) en route to Norfolk/Portsmouth, Virginia where Abreojos will be hauled out for bottom maintenance.  She hasn't had new bottom pain in about 3 years so it is time.  The last time I was under the boat, the paint looked good but was getting thin and there was little to no paint on the bottom of the keel.  We have the Atlantic ICW and some rather shallow spots in Georgia and South Carolina to thank for that.  Every now and then running the keel across some shallow bar is to be anticipated, but it doesn't help the condition of the paint on the keel, that's for sure.

The weather yesterday was absolutely spectacular.  There was not a cloud in the sky and a light breeze.  The temperature was a comfortable 68 degrees and the bugs were minimal.  I have transited the Dismal Swamp Canal 4 times now, and this time was the best yet.  It certainly seemed to go quickly and I was actually tied up by 1500.

The Dismal Swamp Canal is one of two alternate routes along the Atlantic ICW between Chesapeake Bay and Albemarle Sound.  Though it was built more than 200 years ago, today it is operated and maintained by the Army Corps of Engineers.  When it was built, it's purpose was commerce.  Why is it called "Dismal"?  Colonel William Byrd II of Virginia was the first to propose taking advantage of a channel to connect Albemarle Sound and the Elizabeth River.  He took an expedition party out to survey the area and found the swamp, the dense forest, and the thick undergrowth quite repulsive.  It is for this reason that "Dismal" was added to the name. 

Construction of the canal started in 1793.   Digging took place at both ends.  The canal was dug by hand, mostly by slaves hired from nearby landowners.  Of interesting note is the fact that, during the construction of the canal, the slaves became so familiar with the swamp that it eventually became a haven for runaways.  The cost of digging the canal became so prohibitive, however, that in 1796, the company building the canal stopped and decided to build a road to connect the two disparate canal sections.  Ultimately, it was finally completed in 1805.

In the beginning, the canal was so shallow that it was only useful for flat boats and long rafts.  It was considered a far cry from what material merchantmen envisioned as a trade route.  Moreover, over the years, Byrd's company stopped maintaining it and it fell into disrepair, and water levels tended to fluctuate radically.   Now, there are two locks, the South Mills Lock and the Deep Creek Lock that maintain the water depth at approximately 6 feet.

Those of you who know me know that, I love Edgar Allen Poe.  As it turns out, there was a hotel built near the North Carolina-Virginia line called the Halfway House Hotel.  It was constructed in the late 1820's.  This hotel was a popular spot for marriage duels and those escaping justice.  Since the hotel was on the state line, all one had to do was walk to the other side of the hotel to avoid being captured in either state.  Notably, however, as it pertains to Mr. Poe, it is said that he wrote "The Raven" during one of his stays there. 

Today, the Dismal Swamp Canal is the oldest operating artificial waterway in the United States.  Although I have been through it 4 times, it never looks the same.  Imagine water as slick as glass, and as dark as a moonless night; trees of many variety and every shade of green.  It is so well protected that the water remains mirror like even when the wind is blowing elsewhere.  As such, the reflection of the banks and the sky completely obliterate definitional lines such as the banks.  I often refer to my radar to see where I am positioned in the canal.  It is not deep, that's for sure.  Although they say the ACOE maintains it at 6 feet, I didn't actually see less than 7 feet anywhere.  And although bumping something sticking up from the bottom, floating, or healing in from the banks is generally par for the course, I only bumped one time (compared to the 6 times we bumped things the last time through.)

Locking through single handed was interesting, but easy, thanks to the help and understanding of the lock operators.  As I approached the inside wall, they used a boat hook to grab my forward spring line before stepping aft and helping secure a stern line.  Then, I would take each line in hand and control them both from the gunwale amidships.  It was a very easy run.  All systems worked well.

ABREOJOS AT THE DOCK AT WATERSIDE MARINA, NORFOLK, VA.
So, when I got to Portsmouth/Norfolk, I considered several options and decided for various reasons to stay at Waterside Marina.  It is very convenient to just about everything and is across the water from where I am going tomorrow morning for haul out.  I took a long walk this morning and enjoyed downtown Norfolk.  It's a beautiful day today, so I think I'll relax with a book and plan to get out early tomorrow to go to the yard.

So far, so good.

Bye now.

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