Thursday, September 29, 2011

WISCONSIN - PART 2 - TWO RIVERS - TRULY A DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH

It was already snotty on the lake when we left Kewaunee.  But we thought we'd give it a try and see how it went.  Our goal was Sheboygan, 44 miles south.  Well, we made it 23 and called it quits and ducked into a town called Two Rivers.  I wasn't expecting much as the cruising guides really don't give it much, and the nautical charts don't show much in the way of available harbors.  However, all of this was pretty much wrong and Two Rivers turned out to be a great stop.




First of all, there is a USCG Station there.  They have a couple of small boats.  Nonetheless, when you see them the first thing coming into the harbor, that feels good.  Then, the harbor entrance is very wide and plenty deep.  It's a little hard to see from 2 miles out, but a good pair of binoculars coupled with the rastor charts, and you can pick out the land marks to shoot for until you get close enough to see the marks at the harbor mouth.  Once you're in, it's all good. 




We picked the Seagul Marina because it was first on the left and did not involve going under a bridge of questionable height.  The chart had the bridge marked as having a 12 foot vertical clearance, but standing there and looking at it, it sure looked like more.  Well, better safe than sorry, we stuck with our first option.




We tried and tried to get these folks on the radio; channels 09 and 16, and nobody answered.  I called a couple times on the phone and just got voice mail.  So, it was so rough and nasty on the lake, going on was not an option, so we decided we would go in and take the first available spot and find someone later.  This we did, and it all worked out fine. 

We walked up to some activity in the back of the building where the harbormaster is supposed to be and found a boat storage office.  We met a guy in there whose brother ownes the place.  Apparently, the person who works in the marina office had taken the last couple days off to go bear hunting and would be back in the morning.  No problem as we do not plan to leave that early in the morning. 



So, we then took off walking.  There is one main street in this town and then several smaller streets that run paralell.  As we walked down Washington Street, which is the main street, we were struck by how nice this place is.  It is quite modern and up to date while holding onto the older style of building.  We did not witness the severe depression we have seen in so many other small waterfront towns.  In fact, in the windows of several stores were signs that said, "We have laid off doom, gloom, and hard times...."




Most importantly, however, as we approached the town square, we discovered a bronze plackard that told the story of the first ice creme sunday.  Apparently, the first ice creme sunday was made right here in Two Rivers, Wisconsin.  I understand that Ithica, NY claims this fame as well.  However, although theirs is allegedly documented, it is purported that Ithica started making sundays in the early 1890's.  Here, however, it is proclaimed that, in 1883, the first ice creme sunday was made at the request of a local ice creme patron who asked to have some of that chocolate sauce put on his ice creme since they didn't serve soda with ice creme on Sundays.  Then, shortly thereafter, a local child asked for the same thing on a weekday and, against the protest of the shopkeeper, stated that everyday could be a Sunday.  The shopkeeper agreed and the ice creme sunday was born and became available on any day.  In fact, it would appear that, so as to avoid irritating anyone's sensibilities over the whole ordeal, the dish was actually called an "Ice Creme Sundae".



Of course the original was made with vanilla ice creme, chocolate sauce, whipped creme, nuts and a cherry.  There were variations, and in time, one could do just about anything they wanted with a variety of toppings and a multitude of ice creme flavors.  However, what you really have to keep in mind is that Wisconsin is known as the Dairy State.  As such, the ice creme I had in my sundae was perhaps the best ice creme I have ever had.  I didn't get all crazy with different flavors.  Rather, I wanted to taste plain old vanilla.  It was superb.


Then we discovered the Washington House.  It was built in the 1850's and is one of the places where the first versions of the ice creme Sundae was first served.  In fact, they are still served there today in the historical ice creme parlor.  Today, the building is also an historical museum.  We entered and were greeted by three women who were the day's volunteers.  They were very nice and very knowledgable about their town and what was contained in the museum.  You may recall that I have, on more than one occasion, stated that there is a fine line between historical museums, consignment shops, and garage sales?  This place certainly hit the mark as an historical museum.  Their collection consisted of art work, a toy collection,  as well as thousands of practical items that truly displayed the history, heritage and culture of this community as well as the surrounding area.  There is a traditional lady's bedroom filled with hats, sewing machines and a 1902 wedding dress.  There is a Beer Room which has bottles, posters, and all kinds of beer stuff from the turn of the century.  There is a turn of the century through the 1950's kitchen with all the coolest and newest (oldies) appliances.   The displays were well marked and explained everything.  A self-guided tour led to understanding.  All of the items were donated by local families over the years.  Even the building itself had historical significance as it was once used as everything from a boarding house to a brothel; from a department store, to a suite of professional offices and conference and ball room uses.  And, upstairs, there are replicas of dental and medical offices containing original equipment used by a dentist and a physician both of whom lived and worked in Two Rivers.  There is also a replica barber shop as well as a hotel room.  Back in the day, one could rent a hotel room for $.50 per day.    The grand ball room is still available to rent at $10.00 per hour. 




Across the street, in the huge Hamilton Machinery Factory was the Hamilton Wood Type Museum.  The Hamilton company manufactured a number of things over the years, but what they are apparently best known for is the wooden type which is still used today to print posters, flyers and leaflets.  It is really quite a process to make the letters and all of the fonts used to hand press and print posters of all sizes.  This was interesting insofar as I recall my Brother who is a graphic designer struggling while in school using a computer to design and develop fonts.  Imagine having to start with a cut log and then having to cut the log down to size, prepare the pieces for thickness, sand them, etch out the letters, trim them, perfect them, and then figure out how to place them so they could be inked and then pressed to paper by hand to make a poster.  This sure represents a lot of work.  It was very interesting to see.

Well, sometimes you just hit the nail on the head when you come into a new town and you meet some folks you really had no idea you ever would.  So, we are walking down the street and we see a guy outside this liquor store/bait and tackle store/smoked fish market/convenience store who is cutting down logs into smaller pieces using a chop saw.  Brenda and I were thinking the same thing - maybe we can buy some of that cut wood for our fireplace.  So, we asked.  They guy outside didn't see a problem, but suggested we should talk to the owner inside.  In we went.  Here we met Captain Norman Bussie, aka Captain Norris (Norm Bussie), aka Nasty Norm.  Not only is he the proprieter of the River Front Bait & Beverage Mart, but his business card says he is also a Philanthropist, Hero of the Oppressed, Tax Payer, and World Traveler, Lover, Fighter and Sea Captain.  Whatever you need, Captain Norm can take care of it.  According to his card, he can do just about anything whether it is Wars Fought, Revolutions Started, Assasinations Plotted, Governments Run, Whiskey Run, Tigers Tamed, Bars Emptied, Virgins Converted, Voters Bought, Rumors Started, or Manure Spread, Captain Norm is your man.  Not only did he graciously provide us with two heavy buckets of chopped apple wood, but he also gave us about a pound and a half of freshly smoked Lake Michigan Salmon.  Later in the day, he and his wife, and his friend and his wife, all of whom are originally from Indiana, came down to the boat for a tour and to visit a while.  This was a great treat. 






We also happened to meet two other very cool folks from Hawaii.  They are travelling around the country in a "dirt yacht".  They were walking around on the docks and came to ask about the boat, fishing, etc., and we got to talking about doing the loop.  He is a harbor pilot in Hawaii.  He is one of those guys who drives the biggest ships in the world into and out of various ports in the Hawaiian islands.  Funny thing is, as he describes it, it's easy for him to dock a 1200 foot freighter, but he couldn't dock his 32 foot trawler if his life depended on it.  We laughed when I was telling him how interested I was in what he did for a living and his wife said she likes to think of him as a valet parking service for big boats.  The came aboard and visited for a while.  She is from Tahiti.  They have a house there on an outer island where it is possible to bring the boats up and anchor them right in front in a totally protected lagoon.  I told her I was going to take her up on her offer one day.  Once again, we had the privilege of meeting some wonderful people whose paths we would not likely ever cross.  Perhaps there is meaning in all of this beyond the pure and simple "wow factor."  Not sure yet, and if discovering the true meaning of it all means meeting your maker, well, I can wait awhile.





That was a really full day.  In the morning we will leave here for Sheboygan.  The weather forecast is not unreasonable for another 24 mile run.  I think we'll make it.  Then, it looks like we are going to be holed up there for a few more days.  The low pressure system that has been bringing rain to these parts for the last 5-6 days is finally planning on moving out of the area and behind it is the northwest wind that is scheduled to start filling in with a purpose on Thursday night and blow like stink until Saturday.  So, we just keep pecking away at it and eventually we will get off Lake Michigan in one piece.

That's all for now.

Well, we made it to Sheboygan.  It was an uncomfortable ride, but not as bad as yesterday.  Either way, we are here for the next couple of days.  Actually, we will likely be here through Sunday.  Then, it looks like we will have at least a couple really good travel days.  In the mean time, this is what the National Whatever Service is calling for:

================================================================

LAKE MICHIGAN FROM SHEBOYGAN TO PORT WASHINGTON WI 5 NM OFFSHORE
TO MID LAKE-

307 AM CDT THU SEP 29 2011

...STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 4 PM THIS AFTERNOON TO
1 PM CDT FRIDAY...

A STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 4 PM THIS AFTERNOON TO
1 PM CDT FRIDAY.

* EXPECT SUSTAINED STORM FORCE WINDS OR FREQUENT STORM FORCE
  GUSTS FROM 4 PM THIS AFTERNOON TO 1 PM CDT FRIDAY.

* DURING THE STORM WARNING...THE STRONGEST WINDS WILL BE UP TO
  50 KT FROM THE NORTHWEST. THE HIGHEST SIGNIFICANT WAVES WILL
  BE UP TO 22 FT. THERE WILL BE OCCASIONAL WAVES UP TO 33 FT.
A STORM WARNING MEANS WINDS OF 48 TO 63 KNOTS ARE IMMINENT OR
OCCURRING. RECREATIONAL BOATERS SHOULD REMAIN IN PORT...OR TAKE
SHELTER UNTIL WINDS AND WAVES SUBSIDE. COMMERCIAL VESSELS SHOULD
PREPARE FOR VERY STRONG WINDS AND DANGEROUS SEA CONDITIONS...AND
CONSIDER REMAINING IN PORT OR TAKING SHELTER IN PORT UNTIL WINDS
AND WAVES SUBSIDE.
======================================================================

Did they say waves up to 33 feet?  Holy Shit, Batman!  Well, I think it is about time to think about sitting this one out.  I really just want to get off this damn lake. 

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