I mentioned the weather that kept us tied up at WYC for a couple days. Can you say, "completely miserable?" I didn't hear you. Say it with me, C O M P L E T E L Y M I S E R A B L E. We left Put-In-Bay a day early and boogied out of Lake Erie as we saw this storm coming, but we didn't know it would last so long. It rained almost constantly from Saturday evening until Thursday afternoon. The wind blew at nothing less than 15-30 knots from Saturday evening until Thursday afternoon. The sky was cloudy and grey. The water was grey and dark. Moreover, it was all out of the north east so it was.......WAIT FOR IT......WAIT......WAIT.....yes, it was COLD! We have been sweltering for so long that we actually forgot what cold was. Temperatures dropped into the high 50's during the day and the low 50's at night. North of us, there was even a frost warning. We actually had to pull out our coats when we went out, not just to stay dry, but to stay warm. At the same time we were experiencing this northeaster, some of our friends down in the Gulf were getting hammered by a big tropical storm that scowered the region for a couple days. It is my understanding these two systems were related. It sure is interesting how, around here, weather systems are so regionally related to one another. Why, you ask? No mountains, and no adjacent ocean to help moderate all this stuff. So, clearly weather in the Great Lakes influences the weather in the Gulf of Mexico and vice versa.
So, we weathered this storm for several days in the Detroit area. It was ok. We had a chance to hang out on the boat, chill at WYC, and even visit friends we have not seen in a long time.
Brenda went to college in Denver and met a lot of people. However, she only really keeps in touch anymore with two: Dawn in San Francisco, and Jeanne in Detroit. So, when we got to WYC, we got in touch with Jeanne and she came out and took us to her home. We had a great afternoon. We saw her kids whom I have not seen in several years. It sure is scary how they grow. "Tom" is getting really tall with shoulders you could surely build a house upon given a little weight training. "Rudy" is growing up to be quite the athlete. We went to her soccer game. She plays defense and other players were hard pressed to get a ball passed her. She is also into swimming. Tom plays the trumpet in his high school's band. This kid is taking advanced Chemistry! He is very bright dude, and from what I understand, pupular amongst the ladies. Both kids are doing well and otherwise are really nice to hang out with.
We also got to see my old friend Jim. I met Jim almost 20 years ago in Southern California, a friend of a friend. We have always got along great and long ago,spent much time on the beach with our mutual friend Dan. Jim and his work partner Pat came down to the boat and we had a few beers in the WYC. We joked about old times and had a terrific afternoon of it. Jim has his own Hardwood Floor company in the Detroit/Pontiac area and seems to be doing just fine. In fact, I was rather stunned at his relative opulent (he bought a house) stability as Jim is one of the only people I have ever known who truly deserves the title, Free Spirit. Jim is one of those people who has probably done just about everything. From painting houses after a hurricane in Antigua, to commercial fishing in the Florida Keys, to commercial diving in the Santa Barbara Channel, to working on top fuel dragsters in Michigan, Jim has really enjoyed a colorful existence, and throughout it all, he has always maintained his happy go lucky, friendly disposition that is welcoming and endearing to everyone whose life he touches. I always thought it intriguing that we would be enjoying an afternoon BBQ at Dan's house, and later that afternoon, Jim would up and split for North Carolina in his old green Mazda 626. Why? Because he felt like it. I admire his spirit.
So as not to wear out our welcome at the WYC (as if that were possible - these folks were the best), we managed to get off the dock and started heading somewhere in a northerly direction. We had to get some fuel, so we headed up to Keans Marina which is at the other end of the Detroit River from WYC. It was only a 12 mile move, but it was something. Sometimes, you just have to move so you know you are still moving. We managed to get off the dock in the wind and rain without killing anyone or damaging anything, and just cruised slowly up the river towards the bottom of Lake Sinclair.
Keans was a nice stop. The attendant at the fuel dock was really cool and very helpful. We fueled up and then went to our slip. I had arranged for it on the way up over the phone. Unfortunately, the folks at Keans would be leaving for the afternoon as they had a death in the family so to speak. The wife of one of the yard guys passed away and all would be attending a memorial. So, we got there and found only a skeleton crew, but they did a nice job for us. After fueling, we went to our slip (which, by the way, is referred to as a "well" here in Michigan) and headed out for a late lunch.
What seemed like across the parking lot was a place called Sinbads. We walked over in that direction only to find a canal between us and our intended destination. So, we walked back to the office to find out how we get to Sinbads. We asked if it was too far to walk. They looked at us like we were crazy. No, we would not be walking to Sinbads. Seems like the neighboorhood around there is about as friendly as that outside the green zone in Baghdad. They called Sinbads and asked if they could send their shuttle over. Unfortunately, the shuttle needed brakes and the driver had the day off. So, a nice fellow who happened to be hanging out in the office at Keans, offered to drive us over. First, however, Keans called Sinbads to confirm that if we got there, they would drive us back. No problem. So, off we went. Lunch was no better than average, but it was an interesting experience. Once we got "outside the gates" we understood why they didn't think walking in this neighboorhood was a good idea.
One thing Keans had that we have not seen at any other place we stopped along the way was a jaccuzzi. It was cold, windy and rainy, but so what when the water is 102 degrees? We grabbed some drinks, some towels, and something warm to wear, and headed to the pool. By the time we got there, the rain had stopped, the wind had stopped, but it was still cool enough to enjoy a dip in the hot tub. It was great.
We awoke early and pulled out early on Thursday. From Keans, it was only a mile to the bottom of Lake St. Clair. The Lake was a little snotty in the morning, but after we put a couple miles between the south end and the north end, it calmed down and we had an effortless crossing. The water is really clear on the Great Lakes and, we hear, it only gets better. I can really only describe the color as like turquoise. There were slivers of sunlight poking out from time to time, and the wind all but disappeared as we crossed the 23 miles to the bottom of the St. Clair River.
The St. Clair River was very interesting. At the bottom of the river (top of Lake St. Clair), there are wonderful residential communities built on what appear to be manmade islands and breakwaters. As you roll up this river, on the left is America and on the right is Canada. There is a pink line that runs down the center of the river (on the chart, that is) that represents the official boarder between the countries. It's interesting to see how, on both sides of the river, there are American flags flying next to Canadian flags. We asked about this and one fellow told us that this is the friendliest boarder around. Folks regularly go back and forth, whether its for work or for play. This is especially true in the yachting community. The various yacht clubs compete against one another making for essentially weekly international regattas. What is not good to hear is how easy it is to go to Canada, how friendly their customs and boarder patrol agents are, how efficient their system is for checking in and checking out, and how downright boehemouth, slovenly, stubborn, stupic, ignorant, lazy and downright difficult our American Customs and Boarder Patrol Agency has become. This is not to say that they are making it difficult for unwanted folks to get into the country. They aren't. This boarder has more holes in it than a truckload of Swiss cheese. It's easier to get into the US from Canada than it is from Mexico. At least from Mexico, illegals will have to get past the Minutemen who selflessly live out in the desert in tents and trailers guarding an imaginary line and communicating their observations to a Boarder Patrol that seems to car, even if their folks in Washington don't. Nevertheless, one could sail a sabot from Canada to the US and nobody would even notice. However, if you are an American citizen with a passport who has gone to Canada for the weekend, you are supposed to check back into the country. Unfortunately, we have heard an overwhelming number of reports of how American citizens checking back into their own country are treated rudely, experience long delays by Boarder Patrol personnel who are clueless as to their own jobs, and pass folks from one phone number to another only to be told that this is not my department, call here. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE! So, the dumb schleps in green like to careen across the water in their intimidating little boats, but when it comes right down to it, they do nothing to protect us. There are plenty of them to do the job. It's not like their overworked and undermanned up here. Unfortunately, it would seem that the requirements to be a Customs and Boarder Patrol agent are pretty relaxed. I suppose they could also get hired at Burger King.
Well, once you get passed all the wonderful residential areas on the lower part of the St. Clair River, things become very industrial. There are power plants, chemical plants and oil refineries everywhere along the river, and yet the water still looks very clean. There are a lot of folks fishing along the banks.
We got passed by freighters and barges of all description. The vessels that really attracted my attention, however, are the Great Lakes bulk carriers. These things are HUGE! They actually make a lot of the ocean going freighters look small in comparison. When they are empty, they are really high out of the water. However, when they are loaded, while still tall, you know they are drawing close to 30 feet and are actually churning up mud in their wakes. These massive ships seem to be equipped with bow thrusters as well and can dock and undock themselves.....apparently, as we have seen nothing that looks like a tugboat used for moving large ships around. They pick up pilots here and there who obviously have been plying these waters their entire lives. It's really important to pay attention to where you are and where these big ships are. If they are coming down river, it doesn't matter what you think, they simply cannot stop. One such ship coming at us yesterday had its engines in reverse as it was coming down the river. Even though the current is maybe 2 knots, this is a lot when we are talking about a loaded freighter displacing 350,000 tons. In other words, stay out of the way. There is nothing they can do to avoid a collision, so don't become a splotch on their hull.
We stopped for the day at the Port Huron Yacht Club. They had a little space for us on their outer harbor wall, and the price was right - FREE for the first night. We only plan to stay one. Nevertheless.... So we got to visit with Jeanne and the kids again last night and went to dinner at this place that made the BEST BBQ chicken I have ever had in my life. We also picked up a few supplies at a local convenience store, and walked for a couple miles in Port Huron. This is a very nice place. If we had more time, it is a place I would like to stay for a few days. As much as we love the folks at WYC, this would have been a better place to be holed up for weather as this town is very close by, safe, and there is a lot to do. It's too bad the folks at PHYC are not nearly as courteous. Their dock master was a nice guy, but we went in the bar last night after Jeanne and the kids left, and sat there at the bar for 15 minutes. The bartender, a member, kept walking by us and did not even ask us if we wanted anything. There were other members at the bar who also completely ignored us. So, we go up and walked out. These pricks should wander down to WYC and take a lesson on how to be nice to visiting yachtsmen. So, we'll take the free dock, spend no money in their bar, and leave. Bye.
Later this morning, it is our plan to start our crossing of Lake Huron. The weather is looking good and we should be able to put on 50-60 miles per day for the next few days. Again, it's unfortunate to have to be in "delivery mode", but we have to keep moving. We spent way too much time dilly dallying in Florida. We'll have to figure out a way to get back up here sometime soon when it is "season" and enjoy the Great Lakes. The cruising is some of the best anywhere. It's really pretty and, with the exception of the PHYC, the folks are all very nice, here in Michigan.
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