On the day of our departure, however, the fog moved in and was so thick, you couldn't see the front of the boat. The water was completely still. Everything was grey. It was ok, though, because we had to wait for our tide to make the river mouth. The tide was high and the fog lifted at about the same time so we split.
The town of Tarpon Springs (TS) is approximately 5 miles up the Anclote River. It's really pretty up there. The river is narrow, but the water was plenty deep. The river is fed by both the Gulf tides as well as springs that bubble up from under and around the town.
We took a dock at the Landings Marina, right across and a short walk from the famous Sponge Docks. I really cannot say enough good things about this place. We called the day previous and made a reservation. It's nice when marinas do that, as opposed to telling you that they operate on a first come - first served basis, especially when you have to run 5 miles up a strange river to get there. We called the marina about a mile out and let them know we were almost there. When we arrived, they had two young guys out on the dock to meet us and take our lines. Then, when we got fuel and pumped out the holding tank, these guys would nary allow me to touch a hose. They took charge and took care of everything to my exact specifications. They were wonderful and very friendly and helpful. In fact, the service did not end there. Each day, they would come by the boat a couple times to check our lines and fenders and make sure they were appropriate for the tides. While this place may not have the look of a 5-Star marina, the staff here sure act like it. I really hope good things happen for these guys. They really deserve it.
After getting all tied up, we walked across the bridge over to the Sponge Docks. The Greek atmosphere is thick. Afterall, this is the home of the Greek Sponge Divers in the USA. There is Greek food and music everywhere. Really, the Sponge Docks are little more than a tourist attraction, but it sure is fun. There is shop after shop selling sponges and related items - soaps and oils, linaments, and whatever else you might use a sponge for. There is a cool sponge museum as well as exhibits and exhibitions. They have a couple of the old sponge boats completely refurbished and on display. What we are talking about here are 40-45 foot wooden boats equipped with air compressors and specific rigging designed to lift, hold and dry sponges harvested from the rocky reefs off shore. It's an industry that is ages old, but has been relegated to the tourist trade for the most part because of synthetic sponges you can easily and inexpensively buy in just about any store.
We had a nice afternoon wandering the docks and then settled in for drinks and appetizers at Mama's Greek Restaurant, a mainstay in the TS area for more than 45 years. The food was delicious and the drinks were good. It was warm enough out that a cold beer actually made sense, especially after all the cold weather we have been enduring for the last couple months. I actually got to wear shorts for the first time since early November.
However, the real reason we came here was to see Manatees. These are rather strange beasts. They like to live in the brackish waters of the Gulf west coast, up the rivers, near where springs bubble up. They come way up here in the winter time because the water is warmer at or near the springs - approximately 72 degrees. These animals are quite large - 6-7 feet plus in length, and probably weight several hundred pounds, at least, up to a ton or more. In appearance, they are sort of a strange cross between hippos and walrus, and have a flat, paddle like tail. They are mammals and breathe air. However, they like to stay submerged for long periods, up to 20 minutes in some cases. Then, they will slowly pop up to the surface, sticking only their whiskery nose above the water, exhale, inhale, and then disappear into the brownish brackish water again. Sometimes, they roll on the surface like a whale. You see their back and then a part of their tail fin/paddle, and then they are gone again.
The guys here at the marina told us there were numerous recent sightings down the river a spell, and into the Spring Bayou. So, of course, we hopped in the dinghy and took off. There are signs all over the place that warn you to slow down, to run at idle speed, to make no wake, because these are Managee Areas. In fact, up the Spring Bayou, it is a "No Motor" zone between November and March. So, when we got to the No Motor Zone, we rowed with our paddles, canoe style. As we got further and further back into this bayou, it took a bend to the left (north) and we came into a basin surrounded by this beautiful park. After this, it didn't take long to find Manatee. You just look for the tourists with their cameras pointed. This is exactly what happened. We saw some folks standing at the end of a dock in this basin taking photos. So, we rowed up real quiet, and there they were.
We found 4 Manatee basking in the relatively shallow water. They are quite docile and almost shy. All you would see was a nose popping up, an exhalation, and then a boil on the surface where it was. Everynow and then, one would do the whale roll thing and you could see its very dark colored and mottled skin on its back before catching a brief glimpse of the paddle they call a tail. When the tourists left the dock, we rowed quietly over to it and sat there for what seemed like hours watching the animals breathe at the surface and then sink down below. I am not sure if this is what I expected. Frankly, I had no idea what to expect having never seen a Manatee before, not even in a zoo. And this was no zoo. However, I can imagine how the uninitiated might show up at this park and think this bayou was a wonderful lake where they keep Manatee for the tourists to look at, but they would be wrong.
This was an interesting place because the Manatee live in the waters right in the middle of town. I'm glad the State of Florida is so vigorous in its protection of these great, lumbering, completely harmless beasts. I hope we'll see more later in the cruise. It was a very cool experience for me. The way they swim reminds me of how my father used to enjoy the pool. Not a great swimmer, but he sure loved to float and breathe and just relax in the water. Who knows? Perhaps in the vision of the Manatee, I saw a spirit. I don't know, but it makes me smile to think about it.
Today, we are off again. We will continue heading south towards the Tampa Bay area. Our plan is to stop tonight after a 30-35 mile run at a place called Reddington Shores. ActiveCaptain.com identifies it as a great place to anchor. Ultimately, I am looking forward to visiting St. Petersburg or St. Pete's as the locals call it. There is a Salvador Dahli Museum there that, according to the guidebook I was reading, has more of his work than anyplace else in the world. I have always loved his work; very strange and twisted; graphical images of the imagination and dreams.
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