TENN-TOMM PART 3

Once we left Columbus, Mississippi, by mid day, we had crossed the boarder into Alabama.....again.  Alabama is probably the one state we have entered and exited more times than any other.  We entered Alabama from Mississippi last year when we crossed Mississippi Sound and crossed the south part of Mobile Bay.  We entered Alabama from the north on the Tennessee River.  And we have entered Alabama from the west on the Tenn-Tom.  We will remain in Alabama water until we cross our wake.

The White Cliffs of Epes, Alabama

 The Tenn-Tom is a man made cut, but it has all the feeling of a natural river.  It is really pretty all the way down, even though we have rarely seen the sun, it's still quite colorful.  There is a lot of barge traffic depending on the day you travel.  Believe it or not, Sunday is one of the most busy commercial traffic days;  Wednesdays are also very busy.  I think the skippers get their empties dropped off on Monday and then the full containers leave on Wednesday or Thursday.  So, by Friday, there is not that much going on.  Tuesdays are also surprisingly quiet.  I have been wondering whether or not there was any rhyme or reason to it.  I might be on to something here. But, I doubt it, really.  It doesn't make any difference unless you are trying to get through a lock.  There, commercial boats have total priority, second only to government vessels.  For some reason, the Tenn Tom is the only place since the GICW in Louisiana where we have been permitted to lock through with commercial traffic.

We left Columbus early as we wanted to get down to Demopolis in two days.  It's a pretty long run in a slow trawler and there are not many places to stop.  The water levels are about average right now, but they can change over night, so you have to be careful where you drop the hook, lest you be staying a while when the water level drops a couple feet stranding you until the next flood.

These white cliffs are located on the Tombigbee River at Epes AL. They are
part of the Selma Chalk formations which were deposited at about the
same time as England’s famous white cliffs of Dover.

We rolled along all day and enjoyed sunny skies for a change.  We saw some sights and enjoyed the natural scenery, and pulled into an anchorage called McClellan's Landing at around 3:00 p.m. and settled in for the evening.  We were surrounded by farm lands for as far as Google Earth could see and enjoyed the sounds of silence, interrupted only occasionally by the sound of a far off cow.  Even the birds were quiet.  It was sort of eerie, but it was very nice as well.

In the morning, we woke up to thick fog and a lot of ice on the boat.  It got pretty cold during the night.  It was a boots and gloves kinda morning while out on deck raising the anchor.  Nevertheless, by 6:45, the fog was gone enough so we could see, and so we took off for Demopolis, a little more than 60 nm south.

Unfortunately, just before we left, and confirmed on the AIS, a towboat and barge had the same idea.  It took a couple hours, but we finally caught up to him and got close enough to pass.  So, we had the conversation and once everything was ready, we stomped on the old squirrel and started passing.  This barge was only moving 6.5 knots, and we were moving only a little faster.  The differential between us was only a couple knots, so you can imagine how slow this pass seemed.  The barge was not going to pull back as we were coming into a slight bend to the left.  This worked out because to make the turn, the barge flanks out to the right while keeping the nose of the furthest barge somewhere near the center or left side of the waterway.  It's like using a fulcrum to bend around a corner.  Turn the nose slightly to the left, Starboard engine hard forward, port engine hard in reverse, flanking engine engaged.  It's a very cool and slippery maneuver to watch.  The barge is almost 700 feet long and the waterway (the usable waterway - the channel) is only a little more than 200 feet wide.  So, it takes a little seamanship to make tight turns.

Well, we got by and bid farewell, suspecting that we would see him again when we got to the next lock.  Of course, we did.  When we were approaching the Tom Bevil Lock, we called and the lock master was going to turn around the chamber and drop us through.  Then the barge called and the conversation went from what side he wanted us to tie up on to could we move out of the way and hang over to the side so the barge could get into the chamber.  Now we had to start thinking about alternatives as this was likely to cause us an hour delay in terms of our planned destination and there was a real concern that it was going to get dark on us before we got there.  However, the lock master called the towboat and asked if he'd mind if we rode down in the chamber with him.  No problem, was the reply, but he would have to leave the lock first.

Demopolis Yacht Basin

The configuration of the barges pushed by this towboat was as follows.  2-2-3.  So he had three up top.  When he went into the box, he had literally inches on either side of the three.  So, we went into the chamber and tied up just

Now that we were both out of the lock, we asked to pass him again.  So, again, we stepped on the old squirrel and rolled as quickly as possible past the rig and back out into open water again.  We were talking with the barge while we were in the lock and had everything arranged.  I knew, however, that he was going to Demopolis.  So, without having said anything, I had also thought about just falling in behind him and following him all the way down if it had become dark out.  That was my third back up plan, and frankly, not a good one at that considering how much stuff those guys dig up and kick up from the bottom when they go by, and especially in the turns.  I'm trying very hard to get down this river without hitting anything.

We arrived in Demopolis with plenty of daylight left so we stopped first at the fuel dock and topped off, before going to our slip.  We had planned to stay here a couple days to get some things done and to rest up a bit.  From the way the cruising guides describe Demopolis, you would think you were going to heaven.  Well, it's not really like that at all.  The folks who run the marina are some of the nicest and friendliest and most helpful folks we have ever met.  But, the marina and the grounds are a little more commercial than originally anticipated.  Here, there is a fuel dock where tow boats stop to fuel and provision.  One of the guys who works here was telling us what kind of fuel the tow boats take on.  It's pretty staggering.  I mean, I wasn't surprised when he told us that the one that just left took 45,000 gallons of diesel.  I simply experienced a small coronary attack when I thought of what the company bill would look like.  Then, if you understand that this should last a couple weeks, and that they will be filling up again before the month is out, and understand that this is now 90,000 gallons for this boat in a month, and if the company owns 10 boats, all working, that's 900,000 gallons per month, and at even a discounted rate, that's one hell of a lot of dineros.  I simply cannot understand how that gets paid for if your company specializes in hauling rock and gravel.

So, we got to our slip and ran into an old friend whom we met at GTB a couple months ago.  Kevin on Irish Rover is still out here making his way south.  He likes to stop in places for a long time.  Actually, he has been plagued with mechanical issues that have compelled him to stay places for a long time.  But, he is cheerfully optimistic that, in the not too distant future, his boat will experience salt water for the first time.  It was good to see him and we had a nice time in the bar that evening catching up.

The marina offers a courtesy car so we had a chance or two to get out of the marina and check out the town.  Unfortunately, it is not good news.  What was once arguably a very quaint and beautiful downtown area, is now the epitome of what happens when a WalMart moves in nearby, and the state routes a highway away from the city.  Downtown Demopolis is basically on life support and is about dead from the neck up.  What was once the theatre district is now mostly boarded up.  The old buildings are rotting.  There are only a couple stores open.  The rest are all closed and gone.  The guide said there had been a number of beautification projects and that they were apparent.  Well, here's a little advice to the editor - go there and see it for yourself.  It's not true.  There is a park in the center of town that looks nice.  And, the government buildings, City Hall, Roster Hall, and the courthouse, look nice, but it would appear the local government is sucking up all the funds and using them for their own facilities while all the privately owned real estate near by is falling into a state of true disrepair.  There are hints of greatness, but you have to dig through the ivy to see them.

The rest of Demopolis exists on the banks of the state highway that runs outside the town.  There is of course, WalMart, and then there is every fast food restaurant you could possibly want.  That's about it for Demopolis.  It would have been nice to find a local museum to describe the local history and lore.  But alas, it was not to be.  Most of the folks in the area live on government handouts and other entitlements.  There are a lot more people than there are jobs.  Its a very depressing place in stark contrast to other towns in Alabama we have really enjoyed.

Ok, this is not a baseball field.  It is not a football field.  It is not a soccer field.  It is a BBQ field!  Imagine the grassy area filled with BBQ competitors.  Seriously.  There are gas hookups and electrical hookups all over the field.

So, now that the laundry is done and a few other chores have been completed, we will be leaving this place and heading south.  In about 6 days, we will be picking up my friend Dan who is flying out to Mobile and who will ride with us as we cross our wake and complete the Great Circle Route.  No we are not coming home just yet.  Our house is leased until May 31.  So, we will have some time on our hands to keep cruising for a while and to contemplate what is next for Larry and Brenda.  In the mean time, we'll keep writing this dribble until the loop has been closed.

Too all our friends and family, at home and abroad, have a blessed holiday season, Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, and Happy New Year.  May all your wishes come true.

Bye Y'all.