I don't know. Maybe it's just me, but the first part of the canal, the Eastern Erie Canal, seemed comfortable. This first part of the western side, on the other hand, seems eerie and almost foreboding. The simple fact of the matter is that this part of the canal has never really been carefully charted for purposes of recreational boating. So, there are many variances and inconsistencies. It would seem that the electronic charting issues common in Mexico are common here. For most of the last two days, my chart plotter has been showing me running on land about 100 yards inland from the canal. Then, there are many marks shown on the canal guide that are missing. There are marks that are so damaged you can hardly know what they are until you are right up on them. Then, according to the NY Canal Corp., the controlled depth for the Western Erie is supposed to be 12 feet. Hah!! I have seen everything from 6 to 41 and just about everything in between. It is rare to see the actual controlled depth. This makes bridges a little more nerve wracking.
The controlled bridge heights for the Western Erie Canal are lower than for the eastern half. Most typical cruising boats can clear the bridges on the eastern half where the lowest bridge may be around 24 feet. On the western half, however, there are a couple 16 footers. So, we have taken down our outriggers, and our mast, as well as folding down the antennae to make sure we can clear the lowest bridges. The problem is this. We know that from the waterline to the top of the radome antenna is just under 13 feet. No problem, right? Well, if the controlled depth is 12 feet, and the controlled bridge height is based on the controlled depth, then there is no problem. But if there is more water in the canal, then, one of two things is going to happen: either the water gets taller or the bridges get shorter, or both, right? Right. So, if the water is 14 feet deep where it is only supposed to be 12, then theoretically, a 16 foot bridge is actually a 14 foot bridge, right? Not much room for error. This is just insane.
The sun finally came out today. For the past few days, it has been overcast and, actually, cold. Believe me when I say, I am not complaining. It went from the mid 80's to the low 60's during the day. I actually put on a long sleeved shirt and we pulled out the jackets to go out yesterday. It rained all day yesterday. So, why not put on 60 miles if all it's going to do is rain anyway? It didn't rain hard, and there were no storms - it just rained all day.
So, we left Little Falls and stopped in a town called Hirkimer because it was advertised as having 50 stores and a diamond mine. Well, we sure got suckered. Nevertheless, the dock was free and it was a cold and rainy Sunday, and we had nothing better to do, so we stopped. When we got there, we discovered what was advertised as a mall, was actually a single building that comprised both the mall and the bar and grill. The cruising guide said there was shopping with over 50 vendors. However, what we discovered was that there was one room in this building that had 50 booths. Ok. So, we spent about 1/2 hour going through that. Then, we learned the diamond mine was a long, expensive taxi ride and involved renting tools so you could go and beat on rocks in hopes of striking it rich. Well, have you heard of DeBeers? I don't think their diamond holdings extend to the lower Adirondacks, and I don't think anyone got rich striking the same quality diamonds as those found on $30 saw blades. So, we skipped that. So, what to do, what to do?
I broke out the trusty Droid and, low and behold, we discovered.....this town has a WalMart!!! Not just any old WalMart, but a Super WalMart!! So, we went. We spent a couple hours wandering the aisles in WalMart. We did walk out of there with some needed items (i.e., short pants and t-shirts), but we also discovered things never seen before - the "Ass Bra" is one thing I never knew existed - actually, I never imagined anyone could think of such a thing. Then, it's amazing that you can go to a Super WalMart and get everything from lipstick to an oil change; from bait to batteries; from pizza to tires for your 4 wheel drive; from eye glasses to airline tickets. Nope, folks, there is no place quite like it. And, in the absence of anything "touristy" to do, WalMart certainly fills a bill.
We did, however, spend a nice evening getting to know the bartender in the bar and grill. The drinks were fine, and she actually sold me an egg. The restaurant was Italian, so the smells in there got me thinking of what I could do for dinner. On board, we had an egg plant that was reaching critical mass, and I had some bread crumbs, some motzerella cheese, and some sauce, so, egg plant parmesan was in the works. However, I lacked one critical item - an egg. (I know, I know, we were just at the WalMart Superstore which, you know, sells groceries, too, and well, hell, I forgot to buy eggs.) So, I asked the bartender whether or not she could accomodate a rather strange and unique request: I asked if I could buy an egg - not a dozen, mind you, but a single, solitary, lonely egg. How can you possibly baste egg plant with italian bread crumbs if you don't have an egg? She came through, and actually, she didn't even charge me. She just handed me a styrofoam coffee cup with a lid on it, and told me she would deny everything if anyone ever asked. We agreed and took our contraband egg with us back to the boat. The egg plant parmesan was excellent......thanks to that egg.
The following morning, we took off. We had no real plan where we would likely end up, but we knew we had to make some miles. From Hirkimer, we travelled almost 40 miles to Rome. Yes, Rome. Interestingly, we have been seemingly on somewhat of a European tour having passed through Amsterdam, Belgium, Rome, Frankfurt, Danube, Manheim, Rotterdam, Greece, Sweden, and Troy. We stopped in Rome because it is a place where we could visit a Revolutionary War time fort - Fort Stanwix - named for Mr. Stanwix, who was ordered by George Washington, to refurbish it in hopes it would be useful in the defense of the northern flank in the war with the Brits.
Actually, this place was constructed more than 20 years prior to the Declaration of Independence. It was originally a place where colonial troops fought against the French and Indians. Later, when the war ended with the Treaty of 1768, the fort was used to settle disputes between indians and British settlers. When the Revolutionary War broke out, however, Washington wanted the place refurbished. Once it was ready, Washington stationed a regiment of soldiers there and they did well fighting indians and withstood a single English siege. After this siege, however, the soldiers sat around there for about another year and a half doing basically nothing but drilling, and repairing. When the war was over, they all left and the fort rotted.
Hundreds of years later, some archeologists discovered the remains of a fireplace at the sight that was once Fort Stanwix, and started a big deal. Next thing you know, what was an otherwise complete and built up several square block area of homes and businesses, were removed so these archeologists and historians could build a replica of Fort Stanwix. So what we visited was merely a replica. It was very nice to see, and we actually learned a thing or two, but, not unlike Hirkimer, the experience was somewhat of a let down. However, we made the best of it and found a super market so we could get a couple necessary items - i.e., eggs - and then we headed out.
Again, it was raining and sort of miserable out, so there was no point sitting at a dock in the rain, so we threw off the lines and headed further west. We actually started our crossing of Lake Oneida at 3:30 and made it to a dock in the resort haven called Brewerton at around 6:30. There was nothing to do there, but there was a nice bar and grill and we got to watch a little pre-season football over a couple day ending cocktails. I also got to eat some Little Neck Clams. So, we accomplished over 60 miles, picked up groceries, got clammed, and got "historied", all in one day.
We left Brewerton early, having decided that we would be covering at least another 60 miles with a plan to land for the night at a place called Clyde. The cruising guide said there is a nice free dock with free water and electricity. Who could pass up such a deal? Plus, we had to do a little laundry and we need a hose to do that. So, here we are. I am writing this wondering whether or not we will go into town and discover what, if anything, there is in Clyde.
More later.
Clyde was really nothing more than a stop for the night. The town was not close by so we did not take off on a hike. It was late in the afternoon, so we just hung around on the boat and did a couple loads of laundry and some other boat chores. In the morning, however, I had the pleasure of speaking with a local guy. Well, actually, he's not a local, but a transplant from East Texas. He was interesting to talk to. He described how he moved up here to retire so his daughter could keep a better eye on him. But he loves it because he goes fishing on the canal every day and enjoys walking his dog on the tow paths. We talked for around a hour about a variety of topics, but it was time to move on. I did take a moment to look up Clyde and learned there are a couple of interesting things of note, particularly, that the first typewritter was invented here. You have to keep in mind that many of these canal towns developed and prospered when the canal was in use for commercial purposes. When that stopped, many of the industries looked to other means to move their products, i.e. the railways, and so their canal traditions faded away. Also, again, this town is like so many others we have seen - it is taking this piss poor economy on the chin and is really suffering. Taxes are overwhelming most folks. Most people are leaving. But, the elderly stay behind to retire quietly, planting flowers, restoring this or that, and hoping tourism will spark their all but dead economies.
We left Clyde and headed back out onto the canal. Our next stop was the beautiful Hamlet of Pittsford. The further east we get, the closer we get to larger metropolitan areas such as Rochester and ultimately, Buffalo. As such, things are starting to change. Even as little as 50 miles further west, there is a little more in the way of prosperity. At least on the surface. I think Pittsford is a good example.
This was once a canal town that prospered in flour. Today, it is rather touristy in flavor. I have a theory on this. I do not think there are enough recreational boaters stopping there to support this many gift shops. While there may very well be lots of unusual things to visit and see for the traveler here in upstate/western New York, again, I am not sure it is sufficient to support all the restaurants. What we have here, I think, is a confluence of road, rail, and canal; kind of like the big truck stops on I-5 in California. There are clusters of things to see and to do; to eat and to drink; and the ability to stop and walk, all along the canal which runs along side the highway (or throughway, as they call it here). So, businesses hope the weary traveller will stop, drop, shop, eat and drink a while, before moving on. The other part of the theory is that there are a lot of retired folks living in these parts. There has to be something to do when families come to visit their retired elderly relatives. If not, then it would be a lot tougher to bring the family to visit Grandma, so to speak. So, there are stores and restaurants that seemingly cater to a younger crowd. I could be completely all wet in my observations, but they are mine. Pittsford was very pretty, however.
We had a great time cruising the streets and a wonderful dinner at a natural food place. Lots of Greek food here. And, we sampled local wines. New York wines are quite different from California wines. They are more acidic, but their noses are more flowery. We had a chardonnay that, at first struck me as "off". However, a second sip led me to conclude it was just different. Glad we tried it, but I think California wine is better.
Not long after Clyde did we lose all chart coverage of the Erie Canal. We picked up the New York Canal System Guide - THANK GOD! The western part of the Erie Canal simply has never been charted. It was kind of strange using a canal guide to navigate with, but it is very similar to a chart. I mean, it's pretty much like running in a tube. There are no intersections, or places where you can get lost. The towns, bridges, locks, etc. are all well labeled and marked, so it is pretty easy to know where you are. You just have to pay a different kind of attention. You find yourself navigating with a highlighter pen keeping track of where you are so you will know when you get there, whereever that may happen to be. It's like saying, we will be at the town dock in Pittsford, not in 20 minutes, but rather, after we go under three more bridges and around one big bend to the left. Given that we have a canal guide, it's probably one step ahead of what Columbus had.
Canal boat charters seem to be big here. You can come over here and rent a 40 foot canal boat - like a dutch barge - and cruise up and down for whatever time frame you want to pay for. I think it's like $2500 per week. The boats look pretty nice, too. They are tiller boats with small engines. They are made of steel. We have some experience in these from when we chartered in Ireland. They go slow, draw very little, and are a wonderful way to see the countryside.
So, even without "nautical charts" you can't get into much trouble. The water depths are controlled so if you did not have a sounder, it wouldn't really matter. Nobody is moving very quickly. Radar is useless given all the bends. It is a little unnerving, however, not having numbered marks so you can pinpoint your location a little better. I guess the best you are going to get is to be able to say you are between this bridge and that bridge. Hopefully, you were paying attention and marking them off as you went along.
We left Pittsford not too early. We had to have coffee first. We have been running a lot of miles each day in an effort to make sure we get out of the can before the expiration of our canal pass, and because we are on a mission to get across Lakes Erie, Huron and Michigan before winter sets in too hard. If we can make it to Chicago or thereabouts before the middle of October, we will be just fine. Unfortunately, we doddled too long in other places and took side trips to places such as Washington, Philadelphia and Providence that cost us big time in terms of our ability to gunkhole it in the New York canals. However, I really do not feel like we are missing that much and there is always "next time".
Today's run on the canal was interesting. We had locks and we had bridges. We had sunshine and we had driving rain. We did rural and we did urban. Ultimately, it was a very interesting day, if not very long and arduous. This leg offered us few opportunities to tune in the auto pilot, so there was a lot of hand steering. We have not seen too much traffic, but we did encounter a friend of ours we engaged in Miami. In fact, they let us stay on their dock for a couple days - yes, that's right, Tommy and Coral in their Diesel Duck. I recalled talking with Tommy about their plans to come up here where they had stored their boat for the winter, but I did not recall what their plans were with any sort of specificity. They were just leaving the dock and heading east as we were waiting for a bridge and heading west. It's too bad we couldn't have known where they were. It would have been fun to sit a while and talk.
Finally, we stopped for the day in Medina, NY. August 18 is our anniversary. This year, while on this trip, we celebrated our 21st anniversary. I suggested at the time of our 20th, when we were in the final preparations to depart California on this trip, that we were sort of celebrating the end of the first 20 years and the beginning of the next - and what an extraordinary transition it would be. Well, we have not been disappointed. This first year of the next 20 years has been amazing. We had a wonderful dinner at a place called "Zambistro's". It's less than a quarter of a mile from the town docks. The food was good and the service was delightful. We had a nice walk through town. The buildings are very cool. While they are not all restored, the folks here have not seen fit to tear anything down and replace it with newer architecture. The nice thing about that, is that you get a flavor of what a canal town used to look like. For example, once upon a time, advertisements were painted on the sides of buildings, as opposed to mounted on bill boards. Some of these remain and are interesting to see. Again, like in so many other towns in upstate New York, buildings and homes are constructed of the ubiquitous Hudson River Valley bricks make of Hudson River mud. They look great and seemingly age well. There is a main street that runs north and south, and a secondary "main" street that runs east and west. There is also the intersection of the highways (or throughways) and the train station, and the town docks.
One of the things we have had out here on the western end of the Erie Canal is lift bridges. There were none until the other day. I have absolutely no idea why the powers that be decided to build lift bridges. As it is, the bridges crossing the canal are no big deal. Out here on the western side, many of them are rather low - I thing we squeezed under a 16 footer the other day. So, if you can build them that low, what's the point of having a lift bridge? I don't know. But, they, like the locks, are owned and operated by the New York Canal Corporation. Also, like the locks, these lift bridges are accompanied by a small park and a wall boats can tie to for free. They tend to be painted blue and gold, the colors of the NYCC, and function quite efficiently. They have what are called "roaming operators." This means that one bridge operator may actually control more than one bridge. In this part of the state, you travel through a number of counties and townships in a day. Each one has a couple bridges and a couple locks. It's easy to imagine how the labor is divided. It's therefore really important to remain calm and courteous when passing through an area because the person who just opened this bridge will be hopping in his or her car and driving a mile or so up the way to have the next one open or ready to open for you when you get there. Usually, at some point in the day, one of the bridge tenders or lock masters will take down your canal pass number and ask you where you will be heading for the day. Of course nobody will hold you to it, but this is how they keep track of you and, to the cruiser's advantage, they have locks and bridges ready for you when you get there. They call ahead. Sometimes, they use the vhf radio and sometimes they use the phone. When they use the radio, you can hear them talking about you and you know it. It's all good, however and the passage through the Erie Canal has been a highlight of this trip.
We will finish up the Erie Canal in the town of Tonowanda, which is very close to Buffalo. We had thought to go to Buffalo, but I have not heard good things about it from a cruisers standpoint. We will likely go into town and visit, but it will be from the town docks in Tonowanda.
More later.
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