BEAUFORT (PRONOUNCED B-YOU-FORT), SOUTH CAROLINA

It was a relatively short cruise from Hilton Head Island to Beaufort. We left Skull Creek and then ran up some sound for several miles before turning left onto the Beaufort River which took us right past Parris Island which is a Marine Corp base where they train thousands of young men and women to be marines. It was interesting that there were several water towers on the base painted white with red letters that said, “1-800-Marines”. The City of Beaufort lies just around the bend. I think I have mentioned before how anchoring in a river with a 1-3 knot current involves more than pulling into a nice calm cove somewhere and dropping a hook.  Big boats tend to lie to the current as opposed to the wind.  So when you pull up into an anchorage in a river, you have to look carefully to see how the other boats are lying.  Sometimes, it would appear that their anchors are behind them, but they are still pointing away from the wind.  Very strange and it takes some getting used to.  Plenty of all chain scope really helps take a lot of the guess work out of this.

We anchored just north of the ICW and just west of the Beaufort Downtown Marina, dropped the dinghy in the water, and went into town for lunch, both of us suffering from a lack of greasy food over the last several days. So, we went in search of a cheeseburger.

 

The city affords visiting boaters free use of their courtesy dock. Dinghies tie up along the back side. Then, you are basically right in the center of downtown Beaufort. First, let me clarify something: There are several towns around named Beaufort. However, it’s how they are pronounced that, among other things, I’m certain, distinguishes them. For instance, here, in South Carolina, Beaufort is pronounced “B-you-fert”, as opposed to Beaufort, North Carolina, which is apparently pronounced “B-oh-fert”. What else is nuts about this place is that the fine for violating a “no wake zone” is almost equal to the fine for driving under the influence. Actually, you have a choice for violating a “no wake zone” - you can pay the $1200 fine or spend 30 days in a nicely appointed Beaufort jail. You might only spend a night for a DUI. Whatever……

Back to the town. We went in search of cheeseburgers.  We walked right down main street.  It was very quaint and southern.  There were not too many choices for cheeseburgers, but, low and behold, we found Luther’s, home of the best cheeseburger in Beaufort. I had mine crusted in pepper and garlic and topped with blue cheese. Knockout! Well, then it was back to the boat - nap time. We did go into town later in the evening.

When we went back later in the afternoon, we walked up and down different streets and discovered much more of the town.  We found a whole row of churches and cemeteries. In the fading light of the afternoon, these places were spectacular. The walls, steeples and buildings are very old and the trees are very tall and dripping with Spanish moss. There were very old and very new grave sites. Interestingly, in light of the upcoming holiday, there were many flags planted next to the grave sites. There were American flags, Confederate States of America flags, and even a couple English flags. Yes, English flags standing next to the graves of some English soldiers who died here during the Revolutionary War. Also of interest were the military insignia placed at many of the sites. There were insignia from the Korean War, the Viet Nam War, WWII, WWI and even the Spanish American War. It really is striking just how much history is crammed into a little place like this. I know there is lots of great history in Southern California, but it all seems to get lost in the shuffle and loses its visibility. Granted, Southern California is simply not that old, but there are people there who hold the keys. We just don’t see and appreciate them the same way we do when we can stand in a cemetery where there remain markers from prior to the time this land became America.

This is a very nice town.  It is very neat and clean and orderly, almost too so.  There are some really beauitiful homes demonstrating wonderful archetecture.  It would seem you could buy one of these beautiful homes for pretty cheap.  Unfortunately, you would spend your last dollar rennovating them every time the wind blew the siding off one side or the other.  It would really have to be a labor of love. 

We really wanted to get out and explore a little more.  Unfortunately, there is no public transportation in Beaufort, and many things were simply outside the reasonable range for bike trips.  That's too bad.  Brenda's sister is a Marine who did her basic training at Parris Island.  There is a museum at the recruiting depot that we wanted to see.  So, we called to find out where it is and if there was a way to get there.  The bonehead (not Jarhead) on the phone was not polite and was in fact rude.  This was completely anathema to what we have otherwise experienced here in "the south".  So, I guess the base will not get our money.

Check out the dates on this headstone - 1779!!! - and English flags, too.

Seeing a Confederate flag here in the south is far more interesting than seeing one in Southern California.  I never learned this in school, but during the civil war when the southern states suceeded, they called them selves the Confederate States of America (CSA).  And I'm still not sure whether California was a northern state or a southern state or whether or not it was the subject of concern as were many other states coming into the union during the 1860's. I am aware, however, that there is a barracks on Catalina Island at the Isthmus that was built and used during the Civil War by Union Soldiers for training and to watch for pirate activities.

Then we had supper at a terrific Tappas and Wine place. The food was excellent. That evening, we strolled along the waterfront stopping for a cocktail and enjoying the sunset.

The next day, we crossed the Beaufort River and went for a long stroll on Lady's Island.  We discovered a very cool antique mall.  However, I wonder where the line is between antique store and garage sale.  The cool thing about antique stores in small towns is that they hold a lot of evidence of days gone by; what folks were into, what they did, what they liked, their styles, their lives in general.  In a town so close to a Marine base, it is no wonder we found several booths stuffed with military memorabelia including uniform buttons, ribbons, medals, photographs, hats and other articles of clothing.  Again, local small town antique stores can and do tell many stories. 

We had a nice day of it and ended it at a wharfside tavern where we enjoyed cool drinks and excellent deep fried pickles.  Yes, deep fried pickles.  These are so good!

This is a house where something happened.  :}

Have you ever had one of those days when you just didn't even want to go out?  When you just want to stay in your pj's all day and do nothing?  That's exactly what we did yesterday.  We drank lots of coffee, and talked.  Brenda knocked out a puzzle and a half and I read an entire novel.  We then enjoyed a wonderful sunset and a nice dinner followed by a movie.  It may seem strange to some, but what we are doing is quite exhausting.  Not so much the heat, the humidity, the constant hiking, and climbing of stairs, but it is quite mentally fatiguing to be in a new town every couple of days trying to figure it all out; constantly learning, studying, and gathering information, all the while trying to make sure the boat starts, doesn't catch on fire, sink or run aground.  It's a wonderful challenge, but now it makes sense why students need a break in the winter, spring and summer.  Learning is hard work and when you are doing it every day, you get tired.  I'm not complainin', I'm just sayin'.......

We are leaving Beaufort today and heading about 22 nm up towards Charleston.  We plan to anchor in the Ashepoo River and just chill a day or so out in the wilderness - make bread, watch birds, look for gators, listen to music, read, you know.  We plan to be in Charleston on Sunday.  I'm hoping to find a bottom cleaner there that is not a total cruiser gouge.  Some guy in Savannah tried to tell me he charged $4/foot to clean the scumb off the bottom of my boat.  Hell, why did I bother to go to law school when I can make money like that?  I sure miss my bottom cleaning service back home -- hear that Michelle?
 

We're out there somewhere.