Tuesday, April 5, 2011

FORT PIERCE AND THE INDIAN RIVER

While we had a nice and relaxing period of restoration in Stuart, we determined that it was time to get moving again.  You may recall from my last post that we were "hamstrung" by weather for a few days in Stuart and we stayed there longer than originally anticipated.  We got out just in time, though, as the holding tank was getting really really full and our water stores were getting low.  Nevertheless, we found a way to make it all work and left without a hitch.  We had been in Stuart before and were familiar with the way out.  Just point the nose east and take off down the St. Lucie River.  There are a couple bends and some straight aways, but then you pass the Manatee Pocket on the right and head straight for the "Cross Roads".  The Cross Roads is just inside the mouth of the St. Lucie Inlet.  It is a rather notorious spot and is known for shoaling.  However, we try to run with the tides, and so, when we got to the Cross Roads, and turned left, instead of right, we had plenty of water under the boat. 




It is always interesting to see how the water changes.  River water is darkish and brown.  But, when you get near an inlet, such as the St. Lucie Inlet, the water returns to that wonderful turquioise blue color - clear and bright. 



At the Cross Roads, we turned left this time and headed north and visited new waters for the first in what seems like a long time.  Our destination for the day was Fort Pierce, Florida.  It was a long run, but, as you know, we have been trying to kill time in order to get to Titusville in time for the April 19 Space Shuttle Launch.





[Note:  we learned yesterday that because of a Russian scheduling glitch connected with a space shot they were supposed to do at or about the same time involving a visit to the ISS, the shuttle launch has been delayed until April 29.  It would appear that their space ship is scheduled to dock with the ISS, but cannot do so if the shuttle is nearby.  I don't really understand what that means....."nearby".....but who am I to question it.  I think the rescheduling really has to do with marketing and press coverage.  The commander of STS 134 is the husband of that Arizona legislator who was the victim of an assassination attempt and the folks at NASA probably want her there for the launch.  Aside from the fact that this woman would really want to be there when her husband gets shot into space on an aging shuttle that was constructed by the lowest bidder, NASA probably sees here presence there as an opportunity to press coverage, and, given that this is the second to the last shuttle launch, they could use it.  What seems really strange however, is that the launch was rescheduled to take place on the same day and at almost the same time as the forthcoming Royal wedding.  I can only imagine how the media is clammoring about what to do - cover the wedding or cover the shuttle launch.  Unfortunately, the shuttle launch will probably only find room on the second page given the importance and all of royal nuptuals.  Our friends in Florida tell us that rescheduling shuttle launches is very common.  That being said, Brend and I are quite disappointed.  We literally raced back north from Key West to make sure we made it across Lake O before the water levels dropped too far so that we could be up in this area (Titusville) for the launch and now it's being delayed.  WE ARE NOT STICKING AROUND UNTIL THE END OF APRIL ON THE OFF CHANCE THAT THEY WILL ACTUALLY LAUNCH ENDEAVOR.  We now have other plans.  Perhaps, however, we will be able to see the con-trail from wherever we happen to be when they finally light the candle.]




Fort Pierce was an easy 26 mile run north from Stuart.  The ride was characterized by straightness and plenty of deeper water (9-11 feet) all the way.  The channel was plenty wide as well, and because we travelled on a Friday, the "schmuck factor" was minimized.  You really do want to avoid travelling on weekends because of the large number of inconsiderate idiots who use the ICW on weekends.

We anchored behind Causeway Island, just across the Indian River from Historic Downtown Fort Pierce.

Fort Pierce, also known as Sunshine City, is located on Florida's Treasure Coast and is one of the oldest communities situated along Florida's East Coast.  The city has an ethnically diverse population. There are absolutely beautiful beaches along the Atlantic Ocean just on the other side of the Indian River. Ranching and citrus remain significant factors for the economy. Fort Pierce has a rural ambiance, but it is sparkling clean and shiny.  

The town is beautifully colored and I really loved the paver stone sidewalks.  Fort Pierce is really not that old and, as you would think, was named after a military post.  During the second Seminole War which began in 1835 the United States Army constructed military posts all over Florida. Lt. Col. Kendrick Pierce and his troops constructed a fort here which was named in his tribute.  The fort was abandoned at the end of this war in 1842.  Later, a guy named Dr. Weeden, bought all the structures and put them into service as temporary residences for new settlers. However, a fire destroyed all of the structures.  The town rebounded, however, and today, modern educational and research facilities, like Indian River State College, the $6 million Smithsonian Institution Research Center, the Manatee Observation and Education Center and Harbor Branch Oceanographic Institute, live in harmony with the completely renovated 1925 City Hall and the current restoration of the historic, 1,200 seat Sunrise Theatre, which will serve as a regional performing arts center.  Fort Pierce is also the original home of the Navy SEALS/Frogmen.



Not unlike other places we have visited, lots of folks live here.  The town has a population of almost 45,000 and continues to grow.  There are nice homes on the outskirts of the downtown area and expand outward away from the riverfront.  The people we met were all very friendly.  We were able to use the City Marina's dinghy dock to get into and out of town and they didn't charge us a dime to do so.  Fort Pierce is one of those places many cruisers simply pass by.  I can tell you, however, that would be a mistake.  There is more than enough to do and see and many good places to eat and drink. 




We toured the downtown area on more than one occasion and enjoyed ice cream in the waterfront park during the friday night market event.  This featured artisan booths, food, live music, and lots of folks coming down to spend an enjoyable evening.  There was a farmers market on Saturday. 




In addition to the historic downtown area, we dinghied to the other side of the river and found a stretch of white sand on the riverfront and slid the dinghy up and tied it to a Mangrove.  We then took off walking to the other side and found a gorgeous beach on the Atlantic.  We spent the better part of Sunday laying in the sand and swimming in the warm blue water.  We also walked up the road and found a place called "Archies" a truly local hangout where the sign says, "No shirt, no shoes, no problem."  With all due respect to Jimmy Buffet's Margaritaville, Archies makes a better cheeseburger!




We left Fort Pierce on Monday morning as the wind was starting to pick up.  There is another front planning to move through.  We have just heard the wind advisories.  It's a cyclic thing.  You have 5-7 days of perfect weather, and then you get plowed by a front.  IT'S CALLED THE JETSTREAM and this is what it does.  So, like my friend Minuteman Rob used to say, you travel between the fronts and hunker down when she starts a blowin'.  When you see the sheep, get the flock out.  When.....  Well, the cliches go on and on.  Suffice it to say, we're fine.  Our destination following Fort Pierce was Vero Beach and we arrived here yesterday without incident after only a 16 mile cruise north. 

Anchoring is illegal in the Vero Beach area so, the city manages a mooring field.  The protection is excellent and the facilities are fine.  The folks who work in the marina are very pleasant and helpful.  There is fuel, water, pumpout, everthing you need.  The area also boasts a free bus system that will take you anywhere you need to go.  The flyer says that although there is no charge to ride the busses, they appreciate a donation to help keep the system running.  That's all good.  I took a brief stroll into town yesterday after we got here to pick up some cokes and smokes and had an opportunity to get a preliminary feel for part of Vero Beach called Orchid Island.  The affluence here makes Beverly Hills look like an impoverished hamlet north east of LA.  There are beautiful clothing stores, jewelry stores, high end food/gormet markets, and no condo hell.  They seem to really respect the trees and build sidewalks around the trees, many of which are hung with spanish moss.  It was pretty nice.  Today, we will explore more of Vero Beach as we hop a ride with our friends Barry and Jodie of M/V Love Shack who happen to have a truck here. 

More later.

Bye

POST SCRIPT:


After visiting the Manatee Observation and Research Center, here are a few intersting Manatee Facts:

Gentle, slow moving mammals.
Can you spot to Manatee in this photo?

Average dimentions: 10-13 feet long weighing up to 3000 lbs.

Propulsion:  Wide paddle-like tail.  They have two front flippers with 3-4 fingernails used to hold the large volume of plant material they eat (up to 10-15% of their body weight daily.

They have small eyes, but have great vision.  They communicate by making whistles and squeaks.  They stay under water for up to 20 minutes (they sleep in short naps while submerged).

Habitat and Range:  Found mostly only in Florida's rivers, estuaries, saltwater, bays, canals and coastal areas.  They have been found as far north as Virginia and as far west as Louisiana.  They have been known to travel up to 30 miles a day in search of food and warm water.

They can live to 60 years old or more.  However, cold weather and red tides have been known to be fatal. 

Manatees are legally protected and have been under federal and state protection by the Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972 and the Endangered Species Act of 1973.  The Manatee is also protected under the Florida Marine Sanctuary Act of 1978.  Unfortunately, what threatens them most is human activities.  They breed very slowly as a mature female calves only once every 2-5 years.  A calf remains dependant for up to 2 years.



Here is what the Manatee Observation and Education Center says you can do to help manatees:
1. when boating, wear polarized sunglasses so you can see them better, and obey speed laws, especially in shallow areas;
2. don't litter; and
3. be informed and support efforts to inform more people about Manatees and their habitat.

Remember, in fact, wildlife management is really people management.




In that regard, we heard a USCG Notice to Mariners yesterday concerning the presence of the North Atlantic Right Whale.  We're studying this issue and hope to find one we can see.  Apparently, females come down to the north florida area to calve before heading back up the east coast where they live and eat.  More later.






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