KEY WEST

We enjoyed three nights in Key West. Key West can only be characterized as a party that never stops. With between two and three cruise ships per day, thousands of college students from all over the country celebrating spring break, many hundreds of motorcycle riders, boats and crews from far and wide, tour busses loaded with travelers, and many, many cars full of tourists, its no wonder the town needs so many bars and restaurants. Duval Street is one bar/restaurant/souvenir shop after another. Even off Duval, there are many more restaurants and bars. Every place has a theme, be it cheeseburgers, or something else, every place has a personality of its own and tends to highlight certain aspects of Key West. For instance, the island has a place called Southern Point Buoy where there is a mock navigational aid painted red, black, and yellow that purports to be the southernmost point on the continental USA. So, nearby you will also find the southernmost restaurant, the southernmost bar, and the southernmost t-shirt shop. It’s like that.

The noise in Key West is phenomenal. One would not go there for a peaceful, relaxing vacation. Perhaps deep in one of the luxury hotels and spas, it might be possible for one to find some quiet, but not where we were. Previously I mentioned how I wanted a spot in a marina for our visit to Key West that put us in the middle of everything. Well, as the saying goes, be careful what you wish for. We had an outstanding spot in the Key West Bight Marina that truly put us in the middle of everything. It is spring break in Key West, which means that colleges from all over the place are out for a week or so between quarters or semesters or trimesters, or whatever. As the various institutions take their spring break at slightly different times, it seems that the whole month of March in Key West is spring break. The parties start early and go until the wee hours of the morning. Immediately adjacent to the marina we were in was the Conch Resort and Marina. They had a lively and loud pool party that started at around 11:00 and would last all day and finally shut down at around 8:00 p.m. Then, the restaurants that line the waterfront all started. Almost every one had its own live music. So the crowds didn’t lie down until usually around 1:00 a.m. But, the bars did not close. It’s my understanding that bars in Key West usually close at around 4:00 a.m. and then re-open for happy hour 7:00 a.m. until noon. Crazy. But, then there’s the downtown area.

The downtown area of Key West, aka Duval Street, is quite interesting. During the day, it does not look like much. At night, however, Duval Street undergoes a transformation. A lot of it has to do with the lights on the street and the lights on the storefronts. The street takes on a personality at night because of the lights, sounds, and people that flood into the street. People cruise up and down Duval watching all the people. It’s a great people watching street. Two of the nights in Key West, Brenda and I spent at a cheeseburger place where we managed to get a table right on the street. This was a great vantage point from which to watch the throngs of people from all over the country (and other countries). It was a fascinating study in humanity. You’ve got the older folks who stroll up and down Duval with this sour look on their faces, seemingly befuddled by all the noise and action; you’ve got younger older folks who seemingly cannot believe what they are seeing and are apparently looking for a way out; you’ve got folks who are completely mystified; you’ve got folks who “blank facedly” walk up and down the street absorbing it all, but completely unable to describe it and worried they won’t be able to; there are groups of bikers who cruise Duval on their “hogs” with really loud pipes. Some of these bikes were well lit up with striking florescent colors on the street coming from under the bikes. This I thought was pretty cool. They were like the big boats in the harbor with their transom lights on. There were groups of college girls in pretty dresses heading out for the night. (I saw some of them walking home in the morning carrying their shoes - ah yes, the “Walk of Shame.” Even in Key West.) There were large groups of college guys, clad in their “Frat Rat” gear, beer bong in one hand, and their already drunk buddy in the other. There are skate boarders, and bike riders; there are skooters, and there are Harleys. And then, there are all the seemingly normal people smiling and talking and walking up and down and having a wonderful time.

There is another side to downtown Key West that lives off Duval. There are some very nice places without huge crowds at the door. No live music; at least none that could be heard from the street. There are beautiful clothing stores, marine stores, markets, liquor stores, a beautiful post office, hotels, and many other things for the tourist. There are probably 10 different museums on the island from the “Little White House” to the Hemingway House; the light house, to the Pirate Museum, and Treasure Museum. There is even an art and history museum. However, probably the biggest attraction on the island is the daily sunset celebration that takes place every day in Mallory Square.

Mallory Square is at the west end of the island. This is logical given that the sun almost always sets in the west. It is a fairly large square surrounded by brick buildings that hold restaurants, hotels, and other stores. It is where at least one cruise ship will dock. (Note that I understand there is some kind of rule that says the ships are only allowed to stay moored here once a month. Given how big they are, they clearly block the view of the sunset. As such, they leave an hour or so before sunset.) During the day, there is not much going on in Mallory Square. Within two hours or so of sunset, however, a transformation occurs. Street performers from all over the country show up and set up. Vendors selling everything from hand woven baskets to blown glass show up and set up. Food carts with hot dogs, sausages, pretzels, lemonade, etc. all show up and set up. There are sword swallowers, escape artists, jugglers, musicians, fire eaters, tight rope walkers, mimes, and even Elvis shows up. It is all very lively. The performers seem to have areas where they set up. They lay a rope down on the ground and declare their areas. Then, they invite the crowd to stand around for the performance. Pretty typical, we’ve seen it in other places - the performers spend 30 seconds doing their act, and 10 minutes telling you how to tip, how much to tip, and that if you don’t tip, none of their thirteen children will be able to eat. Some are a lot more pushy than others. Some are actually funny in doing so. Some are a real bore.

People gather by the thousands in Mallory Square to watch the sun set over Tank and Wisteria Islands. It’s usually a great sunset. We’ve seen many from the back of our own boat. However, you also have out there in the view 20-30 sunset cruise boats. So, if you want an unabated view of a spectacular sunset, you’re not going to find it here. It is however, a great ritual. Everyone claps when the orange ball touches the horizon. You hear people talking of green flashes, and you see hundreds of camera flashes. Then the conchs blow. All of the performers stop for the moment and then pick it up again. Brenda and I thought this was all very fun, but Brenda pointed out that it was more fun to watch and take pictures of all the people watching and photographing the sunset, as opposed to photographing the sunset itself. We get lots of these from the water.

 

Now, while in Key West, we did as much of the tourist thing as we could stand. Of course, we went to southern point, we did Duval Street, we went to Margarittaville for cheeseburgers in paradise, we saw the lighthouse, and Hemingway house, and we walked the streets looking in windows. I must say, however, that one of the highlights of the time spent in Key West was an evening at Schooner Warf Bar. This is a legendary cruisers bar. The food was not great, but the service was good. The drinks are measured. WTF? I had a rum and coke that had mystery rum - meaning whether or not there was any rum in it was a mystery. I asked the waitress about it and she said she would check. She brought it back and said that the bartender said she put the shot in it. Ok, so they don’t pour like they do at the yacht club. Probably a good thing too. Nevertheless, we had the privilege of listening to a band called the Doerfeners. This is a family band, meaning all the band members are brothers and sisters, the oldest being the only girl in the family who is 20 years old. The drummer was 13, and they had their 5 year old little brother come up and sing when they performed Pink Floyd’s “The Wall”. There are 10 siblings. We saw 7. They are all very talented musicians. Some of them played more than one instrument during the evening. For instance, the guitar player also played mandolin. Another guitar player also played drums. The older sister played violin/the fiddle, other siblings played the bass and the banjo. They played many covers but also played original songs. Their originals were very good. We were very impressed. What impressed me the most, however, was the idea of parents managing to get all 10 kids to play instruments. Not only that, but all of them had talent - I mean real talent - the kind of talent it takes to play music professionally in front of crowds. They were practically flawless and moved through their sets seamlessly. Notwithstanding the fact that these were just kids, they did an outstanding job.

I must say that the folks we have met in the Keys have been some of the most friendly people we have ever met anywhere. Everybody from the bus boys to the marina staff have been so kind and helpful. Literally, they will do anything for you. The marina staff was great. As I said before, they got us in three days earlier than anticipated without any hassle whatsoever. Folks at fuel docks and pump-outs are courteous and helpful. They don’t even think about helping with lines - it’s just the natural thing to do. With the exception of good old Fred at Channel Islands Harbor Fuel Dock, I have never experienced this before. You can radio the marina and ask for line assistance. First of all, the marina offices actually have a radio and, what’s more, they monitor the channel they say they monitor. Even more, they actually answer when you call. More often than not, they have attendants on the docks with hand held radios that will help you find your slip and then they help you get in and tied up. While a tip is perhaps expected, it’s no big deal. If you tip, you will get just about anything you want. If you don’t or if you forget, they just leave you alone. Nobody is going to chase you into the shower with their hand out demanding that you help feed their poor children like in Jamaica.

I also met several very nice folks on the docks. There was a fellow who ran the boat rental operation on the other side of the finger pier. He is from New Jersey. When asked what brought him to Key West, he stated that he got to a point where he simply could not face another shovel full of snow. This guy is a totally decent fellow but he, in his own way, had had it with the noise of Spring Break. So, when the music at the Conch Resort got too loud, he simply installed a really loud stereo in his own boat at the dock, and played it louder. As long as the waitress at the adjacent restaurant came out and asked him nicely, he would turn down his music. If she didn’t ask him nicely, she got the finger and the rest of the world got to listen to his music at break neck volume.

This is the alternate Southern Most Point Buoy they don't tell you about in the tourist guides.

I met other people with whom I spoke and learned they too, had had it with whatever else was causing them stress, and they fled to Key West. Like many resort towns where there are lots of tourist services, many of the folks who live in Key West, came from somewhere else. I did not meet anyone who was a local born and raised in Key West. Even amongst the fishing guides and charter captains I spoke with, none of them were locals. For many reasons, it seems like Key West really is the “end of the line.” For us, it is the end of the Keys on this time around.

As I have said before, cruising is very much about the people you meet. As soon as we got tied up at the dock, we met David and Adrienne. They recognized our flag and said, “Oh you’re loopers! As soon as you get settled, come on over for a drink.” So of course, we did. They are the nicest people. We shared a lot of information back and forth. They are headed west in the Gulf and were interested in knowing where to go and what to do. We are headed north on the Atlantic coast and they just came down from Maine. So, we can benefit one another. Not just information passing, but they are fun to hang out with. Their boat is called Gypsy Spirit. It is very appropriate as this name describes them wonderfully. They just go from place to place, wherever and whenever they chose. They are good boaters and have a taste for adventure. In fact, these are the folks I described in my last blog who were in a real fight for survival with an un-forecasted Gulf Storm that caught them in the middle between Marco Island and Key West. These folks are a hell of a lot tougher than they look.

We left Key West at around 8:00 - that’s right - We - Abreojos and Gypsy Spirit - bound for Little Shark River. The National Whatever Service forecasted 10-15 knots wind from the east/north east with moderately choppy seas outside 5 fathoms in the Florida Bay. We saw all of that. The forecast was actually accurate. David kept saying the wind was in excess of 25 knots, but being a weekend racing sailor, I know that white caps normally form at around 11 to 13 knots, and the bumps were barely capping. It was very snotty, however, and it was not comfortable. I like to think of it as God sending a bill for all those perfect days we have had in the last few months. Every now and again, you just have to belly up and pay the bill.

Another shopping list.

It was 9 ½ hours from Key West to Little Shark River, six of which were wholly uncomfortable, and the last three of which were incredible - flat, turquoise water - 6-8 feet deep. Yes, that’s right, we’re back in single digits again. I guess it’s going to be this way for a while as we make our way north up the west coast of Florida back to Fort Myers and the Okeechobee Waterway. That’s the plan. We are going through the Okeechobee again, only this time, when we get to Stuart, we will turn left. There is a scheduled space shuttle launch in April we really want to see. David and Audrey told us of their experience there at the last launch in February and it simply sounds too good to miss. David gave me the lat/lon for the best place to watch the launch from the boat. If you want these coordinates, you will have to contribute to my cruising fund. Given that this will be the very last shuttle launch ever, and because you can probably figure out for yourselves whether this is in the northern hemisphere, I will only ask for $10 per digit. Just kidding.
　
I will write more about Little Shark River later. Right now suffice it to say, I am very tired. At this point, I can tell you it is very quiet here and very, very, very beautiful.
So, we are actually done heading south and are in fact, heading north to more places unknown. Stay tuned.