Fort McRee (aka Fort McRae), Florida

We have left Alabama and have now entered Florida waters.  The trip from Ingrams Bayou was short and uneventful.  Once again, it was astonishing to see the difference in the topography and geography crossing from one state into the next.  Southern Alabama was rich in lush forrest; tall pines lined the ICW and things were very green.  Once you enter Florida, however, things certainly changed.

Gone are the forrest lined banks and narrow canals.  In come the snow white sandy beaches, eucalyptus trees, and larger open stretches of much cleaner water.  Instead of tall pines, lining the banks, the trees have been replaced by beautiful homes.  Well, at least for now.  Florida has a lot of coast line and I'm sure it will demonstate its variety in various ways throughout the next few hundred miles. 

We came to anchor for the night in a wonderful spot referred to as Fort McRae Cove.  It is located just outside the mouth to Pensacola Bay.

This anchorage was created when the Army Corps of Engineers needed a place to dump their dredge materials after working out parts of Pensacola harbor and the waterfront area.  Interestingly, on the nautical charts, it is an uncharted area.  But, between the charts, Activecaptain.com, Skipper Bob and some conversation with locals, one learns that this is actually a very popular anchorage with plenty of water for a boat like ours.  Actually, we slipped in through the entrance with more than 17 feet under the boat and anchored in 10 and came to rest in 16.  We are basically surrounded by white sandy dunes with an opening at the east and one at the west.  From here, we can hear the surf on the gunf side of the island.  It sounds pretty nasty out there.  It is nice to hear the surf again.  It seems like it has been a long time.

The place is called Fort McRae because there was once a military installation out on the point. When U.S. engineers devised a plan for defending Pensacola Bay, they planned the construction of two forts on opposite sides of the entrance to the bay. One of these, Fort Pickens, still stands on the western end of Santa Rosa Island. The other, Fort McRee, stood on Foster's Bank opposite Fort Pickens, but has long since vanished. It was built between  1834 and 1839.  It was unusual for its time in that the design called for the mounting of numerous pieces of heavy artillery on multiple levels. The fort's design could best be described as a "stubby boomerang".  In 1861, Fort McRee was siezed by the Confederacy.  They quickly mounted guns and started shooting at Fort Pickens which was held by the Union army.  Unfortunately, during the Battle of Pensacola Bay in November of 1861, the fort was caught in a crossfire between Fort Pickens on Santa Rosa Island and the ships of the Union navy firing from offshore. The walls collapsed when a magazine exploded and many soldiers were buried there.....permanently.  Ghosts, anyone? Later, in 1862, further damage was inflicted and in 1906, a hurricane removed whatever remained.  While new concrete batteries were constructed during WWII, little remains today to indicate that this was a site of importance during the Civil War.

The site of Fort McRee is now part of Gulf Islands National Seashore.  As such it is a preserve and is a favorite playground for dolphin.  Enjoy the photos.  It's been raining pretty much non-stop in this area, so there was not much to do but hang around on the boat and do some nav-planning, watch movies, and talk.  Tomorrow, we will continue moving east to a place called Manatee Point.  This is another good spot to be in south to south east wind conditions.  Who knows?  Maybe we'll see its namesake.  Our plan (if ever one there was) is to be in the Panama City Beach area on Monday to visit some friends Brenda knew in college.

GULFSHORES, ALABAMA TO INGRAMS BAYOU

We spent three great days at Gulfshores, Alabama. Homeport Marina and Lulu’s were special treats. But it was time to go. We pulled out of the marina at around 10:30, hit the pump out dock and then continued east. Our destination for today was Ingrams Bayou just outside the town of Orange Beach, Alabama. It was a pretty short cruise - about 6.5 miles – to Ingrams Bayou and it really didn’t take very long. I almost wanted to keep going. The sun shined wonderfully this morning and it actually got above 40 degrees in the sun.

We are still on the GICW for a little longer. Just past mile marker 164, you take a big left just past red nun 72 and head up into the bayou. It is absolutely gorgeous. We are surrounded on 3 sides by trees. There are pines, cypress, and palm trees lining the banks. There was virtually no wind today, so the water was like glass. We anchored deep in the bayou in 6.7’ of water. More than enough. The silence here is pretty amazing except for the odd private plane that flies over head. We had a wonderful relaxing afternoon. We hung out on deck and read and just talked. Around 5:00 p.m., it started getting really cold again, so we dashed into the cabin, made a fire, and huddled in front of a movie. Dinner was good and we will both turn in early.

I have been out on deck tonight a number of times and am each time struck by the amazing beauty of the bayou at night. The water is like a mirror, so much so that you do not even have to look at the sky to see the stars, as their reflection is just as bright on the surface of the water. There is complete and utter silence, broken only by the sounds made by a giant blue heron working the banks for mullet, or the magpies doing their thing when the sun went down. We have had several meetings with dolphin back here. We’ve seen mothers and infants swimming side by side. Sometimes, there is a third. Could it be the papa?

Tomorrow, we were thinking of taking the dinghy down and doing some exploring further back in the bayou. Then, we will probably move to another place called Robert’s Bayou, affectionately referred to by the locals as “Pirates Cove”. We’ll see. That’s one great thing about what we are doing – we have no schedule to keep, but miles to go before we…….Ok ok. Not my words, but you get the idea. Actually, we are planning on being in or about Port St. Joe’s by next weekend for an informal “Looper” get together hosted by Port St. Joe’s Marina. There are slated to be some informative lectures concerning weather and crossing the Gulf as well as the AICW and Florida. Brenda does not seem to enthusiastic about going off with all the women for champagne and manicures, and would probably rather hang with the guys for bloody mary’s and football next Sunday. We’ll see.
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Sunrise on Ingrams Bayou -



Attempting to describe a sunrise is difficult. How do you find the best words to describe one of God’s finest creations? Does the All Mighty create the sunrise, or did he just put all the pieces in place for it to just happen? It’s different each and every time, so it is impossible to describe it as any sort of recurring event, because it is not. We take it for granted that the sun will come up every day. We should not be so cavalier, however. So to describe the sunrise, is only to relate in words something that is completely unique and different, and ever changing.





The world is colored by every imaginable variation of primary colors. Light is bent through the prism of the atmosphere into many more variations than can be accounted for. You can’t just say the sunrise turned the sky pink, because, in nature, there are thousands and thousands of shades of pink, and orange, and red, and purple, and yellow, and gold, and blue, and magenta, and green, all superimposed on a velvet background, and water so still, it reflects the sky perfectly and in harmony.



It was very cold out this morning. The deck is covered with ice, as is the dinghy, the BBQ, the davit, and even the fenders and lines. There is a small icicle hanging from the life line. Yes, it is very cold out here this morning. But we are warm and tucked into our winter coats and boots, all so we can witness this most astounding scene. The water appears as black glass - obsidian of an unnatural origin, spread out to all banks. There is the “swamp gas” looming just on the surface of the water. It moves outward from the shore, 6 or 7 feet above the surface. The trees are of all shapes and sizes, each one in perfect balance so that they stand straight and tall. Yet, a lone tree, in its perfection, becomes part of a greater whole in this setting. The thousands of trees lining the bayou create a backdrop of green, and brown, and beige, and yellow, and even red. The bending branches and twigs form an impossible number of shapes and shadows, their look constantly changing as the lights come on. Their leaves and needles reflecting every shade. The grasses lining the banks are like a rich and lush carpet of innumerable hues. The sky has changed colors many times since it was first lighted by the sun rising in the east. While it may have once been black, it is never dark, being filled with stars; so many stars that you cannot possibly count them all. But they lay out like a spread of diamonds. You can see them in the sky and you can see them reflected on the calm surface of the water. Now and again, a bird soars overhead. I wonder if it recognizes its reflection in the water. Pelican, Heron, Storke, Egret, Loone, and Cormorant, and many others with which I am not yet familiar all seem to be getting their day under weigh.

Now that the sun is up, the tide is out, and the sandy shores of the bayou are exposed. There are logs and branches, “knees”, and grasses now enjoying the warm sun’s radiation. It’s as if the whole bayou is waking up from a deep sleep. You see, that is one of the most profound differences between sunsets and sunrises. With sunsets, the day leaves and darkness comes. It becomes night, and all but a few of God’s creatures go into hiding to sleep, or to find shelter from the cold night. With sunrises, however, the darkness leaves and the day comes on. There is a “newness” about it; a refreshment of time and space, each day will become another page in history, in science, in biology. It’s like a blooming flower, or the peeling back of the curtains on a great stage. The music begins, the lights come on. Shakespeare was not kidding when he described all the world as a stage. Sunrise does this. It’s a great awakening of all things.



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We had a great day yesterday. We took the dinghy out and explored the rest of Ingrams Bayou. It really is a beautiful place. We saw a number of nests high in the trees that could belong to Eagles. There are birds and deer everywhere and saw a few deer come down to the beach.



A friend of ours commented on a photo we put up of the deer on the beach and noted that this doesn’t look like the kind of bayou most imagine. Whatever one imagines, it’s hard to actually picture until you get here. Thus far, nothing has been as I had imagined. It’s all a mind blowing experience.











So, today, we will be off for an anchorage called Fort McCrea. It is just before the mouth of Pensacola Bay. In other words, we will be crossing the line into the State of Florida today. I understand that from the anchorage, one can watch the Blue Angels practicing high in the sky. It should be cool to see; that is, if they are flying. The weather is kinda sucky today with southeast winds gusting to 20 knots. But, we are in protected waters and will be just fine. I think the Gulf is pretty rough, but the ICW is well protected in this area.

Take care all, and if I don’t talk to you between now and then, have a wonderful and safe New Year’s Eve and a healthy and happy and prosperous new year.

GULFSHORES, ALABAMA

You know, almost everytime we walk around a corner in life there is something interesting and new.  Sometimes it's a pleasant surprise.  Sometimes, it's not.  I have to say that Alabama, thus far, has been one of those most pleasant surprises.  I know, I know.  We haven't seen but one small coastal community.  But, this is one really cool place and I really like it.

There are a few elements that make for such a striking contrast.  First, and foremost, I believe is the fact that you have to cross a large body of water, Mobile Bay, which, at least for those traveling on the GICW, seems to separate the two states.  Large bodies of water have historically resulted in gigantic distinctions between cultures on either side.  Here it is no different.  Another big distinction in what we have experienced is that we "entered" Alabama approximately 2.5 miles inland from the Gulf.  So, as a first impression, we have not witnessed storm damage. 











Before starting this voyage, it was not clear to me that travelling from state to state would reveal such stark differences in texture, geography, topography, demographics, etc.  At least in the deep south, the distinctions are uncanny.  It's like a slide show.  When you move from Texas to Louisiana, it looks completely different.  When you traverse from Louisiana to Mississippi, it's like turning the page.  Probably the most striking transition, however, was crossing from Mississippi into Alabama. 

 

 

When we rolled through the Bon Secur pass back into the ditch, there were pine trees and palm trees, all standing proud and looking quite healthy.  I have seen neither a pine nor a palm in months. 



I think the Cyprus Trees of Louisiana are a thing of the past, as are the vast grass lands of the Texas Gulf Coast.   That being said, once we got into town a little, there were even more differences.

Gulfshores, Alabama is a great little town.  Everything for the cruiser is here and within walking distance from Homeport Marina.  In fact, you can get tobacco, drunk, tatooed, hot, sweet & sticky, an MRI, a massage, and a chiropractic adjustment all in one block.


Then you can cross the street to any one of a number of churches and make it all good again.  No, seriously, there are good markets, restaurants, various retail repair shops, marine stores, surf shops, clothing outlets, an outlet mall, and, as always, the WalMart Super Center, where you can buy everything from nose rings to outboard engines, including groceries at great prices. 




Gulfshores would also appear to be a resort destination.  The beach is white and powdery and there is no shortage of cool restaurants and bars with their own sand patios and volleyball courts.  Branching off in either direction from the main road (Highway 59) as you get down to the beach are high rise condos.  You see, a lot of folks want to have a place they can come to spend time by the coast and not worry about yard work and maintenance.  So, these condos offer the perfect solution.  Again, every service you could possibly want is nearby.  This is a perfect vacation or retirement destination.  It's also obvious that it attracts a large "spring break" contingent from colleges all over the south.




Down the main road, and as you get closer to the beach, there are these great big "surf shops" with thousands of t-shirts, bathing suits, boogie boards, shot glasses, sandals, etc.  all for the college aged person coming down here to party.  The store even sells ready made Beer-Bongs.  Right now things are pretty slow as it is the dead of winter, but I can imagine that in the spring time, things start hopping right along.  Good thing there is a pretty big hospital near by as well. I can only imagine that the medical professionals who work there are proficient in the art of healing afflictions of both young and old alike.  It's kind of like Palm Springs, but it's on the Gulf, and its not nearly as pricey.

This is what I truly envisioned Gulf Coast beaches to look like.  IT DOES.  IT DOES.

No discussion of Gulfshores, Alabama would be complete without mention of Lulu's.  Lucy Buffet has done an incredible job of developing a perfect, and I mean perfect, waterfront bar and grill.  First, it's impecably clean.  It's very colorful, there is a wonderful ambiance.  The menu is simple, but the food is first class.  They push the rum drinks and the music of her famous brother, Jimmy Buffet.  There is entertainment every day and every night.  The main restaurant itself is surrounded by sand boxes with volley ball courts, outside bars, Aderondac (sp?) chairs, and a boardwalk along the GICW which runs in front.  There is a 120 foot long dock so boaters can stop in for lunch or dinner.  There is a fuel dock and small marine store.  There is a souvenier shop.  It is a complete place for fun, great food, great music, and an overall good time.  We had dinner there last night with some new friends we met.


John and Sue are from Connecticut.  They are bringing their new trawler, "Debrief", home from Texas where they bought it.  They are really fun folks.  We had wine and munchies on their boat the other night and we spent a lot of time laughing about all kinds of things.  They have a very bright and competent son, Colby, who is studying international affairs at James Madison University in Virginia.  We may have very well met the guy who negotiates the next peace treaty between the middle east and everywhere else.


John and Sue



"Debrief"


Nelson and Elizabeth are two of the nicest folks you could ever want to meet.  They are on a Californian 48 that they are bringing from their homeport near Columbus, Ohio down to their new home in Sarasota, Florida.  When we pulled in the other night, I was walking back to the boat and I heard someone call my name.  It was Nelson.  He was us come in and noticed the AGLCA burgee on the front of the boat.  So, he looked up our boat, found my name, and my phone number and called to let me know he and Elizabeth had a rental car and would be glad to take us wherever we wanted or needed to go.  This is a really nice man.  Well, yesterday, we took him up on his offer and he also took Sue and Colby.  So we all piled into the rental car and made numerous stops for provisions of all kinds.  It was a really fun day. 

Nelson and Elizabeth

It has been very cold here.  Last night, once again, temperatures dipped into the high 20's.  Today, at least, it is sunny and clear.  Tomorrow and for the next couple days, temperatures are expected to rise.  Of course, as you should know if you have been following this blog, this is partly because of the fact that the north wind is backing off and a southerly wind is making its way here.  As a result, it will get warmer for a few days, before the next northerly blow happens.  Until then, we'll at least have a chance to thaw out.  It's nice that we have finally learned to use coal in our fireplace.  It does a nice job taking the edge off the cold.  Fortunately, we have been in a marina where we are plugged in and can use the floor heater. 

The town set up this Christmas Tree right in the middle of the square at the entrance to the public beach.

Notwithstanding the cold, we will be leaving this fine marina tomorrow and continuing east.  Eventhough we are less than 30 miles from the Florida line, I am not ready to leave Alabama just yet.  We will poke around in some nearby bayous and other anchorages for the next several days just relaxing and enjoying nature.  We have been in marinas a lot lately it seems.  Well, you have no choice in New Orleans.  We did anchor out at Rabbit Island.  But then, in north wind conditions, you have no choice but to anchor out through most of the Mississippi Sound.  While there are places to anchor in Mobile Bay, they looked too shallow for our comfort level, so we just came right across the bay and into another marina.  Well, Lulu's is the reason we came here.  As it turned out, it was also a great place to do some larger scale reprovisioning.  So, we'll be off and cruising for the next few days. 

Talk to you later.



Runway and Poki.  Poki is a pet Ed and Annette gave us
several years ago.  He has become a permanent fixture
aboard Abreojos.



Brenda thought she saw a ghost in the parking lot.  Well, if it was
a ghost, it apparently didn't mind posing for a photo.