RHODE ISLAND - CRANSTON AND PROVIDENCE

We had an amazing time visiting family in Rhode Island.  From Stonington, it was only 50 miles or so to the Rhode Island Yacht Club in Cranston, Rhode Island, almost ¾ of the way up Naraganset Bay.  On the way up, we took the western arm of the bay.  It is really pretty cruising up here, folks.  There are so many places to drop the hook and so much flat, beautiful, blue water, that you could cruise a lifetime here and around.  Naraganset Bay is off the Atlantic Ocean, but only a short hike from Block Island Sound, Fishers Island Sound, and Long Island Sound.  If I lived here, I think I would want to have a sail boat since the water is wide and deep and there is plenty of breeze that is quite consistent in both velocity and direction.  This is a race committee’s dream place.  We are anchored in the Great Salt Pond at Block Island.  This island sits about 12 miles due south of Point Judith and is part of Rhode Island. 

My aunt Naomi lives in Cranston as does my cousin Jason, his wife Carrie, and their daughter Sophie.  My mom flew out to join us.  It was a great time.  If my brother had come out, then our side of the family would have all been there.  Naomi, Jason and Carrie could not have been more accommodating.  Jason has a buddy who is affiliated with RIYC and that helped keep the cost of 7 nights at the dock with power to a minimum.  Also, they shuttled me around so I could do those things I needed to do to keep the old girl floating.  We had some wonderful meals together and spent quite a bit of quality time just sitting together talking.  They have a beautiful home that is totally perfect for relaxing with friends and family.  Their home is over 100 years old and nicely restored. 

We visited a number of the surrounding communities including Wexford and Newport, and drove through many others.  We also had a couple nice meals in Providence.  We got the tour of Providence.  This is a beautiful city and has a most fabulous state house building.  The city is on a hill and the views from the top of Benefit Street are outstanding.  And the restaurants! 

It is probably little known that Providence is continually rated amongst the top cities in the country in terms of culinary talent.  One of the top culinary schools in the country is here.  I am now convinced that there is no other way to eat calamari than how it is prepared here in Rhode Island (with light lemon or otherwise citrus sauce on the plate and cut up peppers (cherry, banana peppers), and a delightful garlic aioli on the side.

WICKFORD

WICKFORD

My summer is now complete.  Jason and I went to a pro baseball game.  We saw the Pawtucket Red Sox (the Boston Red Sox minor league team) take on the Lehigh Valley Iron Pigs (the Philadelphia Phillies minor league team) on a warm evening in a beautiful stadium in Pawtucket.  That was fun. 

Jason is an expert player and knows the game inside and out.  I’m sure he was hoarse the next day after answering so many questions.  I played baseball, but I never had the kind of grip on the rules and nuances of the game as Jason.  So I learned a lot.  We ate all kinds of junk food, too.  But, the chili fries were the best and the worse.  I’m still tasting the bagged chili they squeezed over the grease receptors they call fries.  Oh and the cheese whiz!  Good grief!  But, the beers were cold and we could buy those 4 at a time.  A great time.

My aunt Naomi celebrated her birthday while we were there.  For so many years, she always helped me celebrate mine.  It was a real pleasure to get to help celebrate hers.  I’m terrible with remembering things like this so it was somewhat of a surprise to me, too, but in a good way.  I got to prepare dinner.  So, growing out of the experiences we have gained over the last many months, I prepared what I have come to know as a “Low Country Boil.”  It’s a specialty in the south and is, in many ways, similar to a New England Boil, but without the expensive sea food.  Folks in the south are less affluent and so eat less affluent food.  A Low Country Boil is very simple to make.  You just have to have a really deep pot.  You start by lining the bottom several inches of the pot with smallish red potatoes.  Burry them in water.  Then, season with Old Bay.  Let them boil until they are almost fork soft.  Then, on top of them, put in the sausage (whatever kind you like as long as it is thick and hearty).  Then put in the cut pieces of corn on the cob.  Then, with only a few minutes remaining, put in the whole live shrimp (preferably) and crab legs and other parts.  Season some more with Old Bay (actually, season a lot with Old Bay), and then cover it and let it continue to cook all together until the fish is properly cooked.  Then, drain off the water and dump the whole pot into a large serving platter.  In the south, folks would dump the whole lot onto the center of the table covered with newspaper.  Here, in New England, however, folks are a tad bit more gentile. 

So, Carries folks came for dinner that night.  They are really nice and friendly folks.  We met them when we attended Jason’s wedding 7 years ago.  Nobody remembers anybody they met at a wedding that long ago, so it was like meeting them for the first time.  Carrie’s mom is a hoot. 

While my mom was in town, she and I hopped on a bus and went to Boston for a day.  I sure wish we could have spent several days there.  It is a great city.  We did a walking tour called the Freedom Trail. 

Along with a guide, the tour takes you through several parts of the city where several pivotal moments in American history took place, such as the Boston Massacre, and the meeting place where the Boston Tea Party was initiated.  We learned about Paul Revere, a lawyer named Otis, John Hancock, Sam Adams, John Adams, and several others who were instrumental in America’s throwing off the British Empire. 

It was made clear that the American Revolution was of the common people and not the aristocracy at the time.  Think about it.  If you were rich with English land grants, and money coming from the crown for various and sundry reasons, you would not want to simply give it all up.  It’s kind of like toppling the entity that pays your lifetime pension, assuming it is your sole source of income.  This guide also enjoyed referring to the merchants in Boston at the time as basically criminals.  For that matter, as he described it, everything that took place in the colonies was basically illegal and against the law of the crown.  He described it in terms of the fact that, life in the colonies was going on; things were happening; folks were elected; there was currency and trade; all aspects of life went on in spite of English Law.  This went on unabated for many, many years right under the King’s nose, but, insofar as local officials were happy, nobody back in England needed to know anything about it. 

The reports were all good.  However, as it was explained, England damn near broke itself fighting the French-Indian War.  So, a stupid and greedy king and counsel decided they would recoup some of the costs by taxing the colonies.  This was an ill thought out plan.  Had the king had any real intelligence concerning life in the colonies and how things had been going for almost 150 years, he might have done things differently.  I suspect the king believed the subservience of the colonies was going to be automatic. 

What he didn’t realize was that the colonies did not need the crown or any support from England in any way shape and form.  So, had the king understood who he was dealing with, it was not that big of a stretch to realize he was not going to get away with this.  The folks, especially in Boston, boycotted English goods.  They refused to buy from English merchants.  They refused to pay the taxes.  Finally, when the king taxed tea that was it!  In Williamsburg, we learned that the tax on tea was the last straw because the colonists couldn’t grow tea in America, and thus the tax became a huge hardship.  In Boston, however, the perspective is a little different.  My mom, who is a historian, pointed out to the guide and all following, that the essence of why folks were so pissed off over the tax on tea was because the water in Boston at the time was basically foul and undrinkable save and except for the boiling thereof and the addition of the tea leaves to kill the bad flavor.  So, the tax on the tea was like gripping the throat.  All very interesting.  The Freedom Trail tour was exceptional and I highly recommend it for anyone travelling to Boston.

Boston, that day, was experiencing record breaking heat.  The mercury had to be over 105, so at the conclusion of the walking tour, we fled for shelter and lunch.  We went to Cheers.  Yes, the place on which the lengthy television series was based on.  The bar portrayed in the tv series is actually downstairs below street level and it looks just like the one on tv where Norm sat nursing a beer every day after work.  You could imagine Cliffy coming in the door and Sam standing behind the bar.  Very cool.  Mom had a “Normburger”. 

Then we made our way down to the wharf to have a look at Boston Harbor.  After walking around in the sweltering heat, we spotted an IMAX theatre and ducked in for a movie.  Nice way to cool off for a while.  We spent the rest of the afternoon at the Boston Aquarium.  By the time we got done with that, an edge had come off the heat so we made our way back into town and found some coffee.  No trip to Boston would be complete, however, without a taste of the New England lobster.  Neither of us was particularly hungry, but that was beside the point.  We found a place offering essentially two one pound bugs for $30 and went for it.  I must say that, while the New England species of lobster is quite good and the claws are cool, nothing beats the California Spiny Lobster.

After a great lobster treat, we hopped in a cab and headed back to the bus station and then back to Pawtucket where Naomi picked us up and took us home.  Thanks mom.  I had a great time.

A definite highlight of our run up the Naraganset was getting to meet my cousin Sophie.  Sophie is 5.  She is a beautiful little girl.  She is smart and inquisitive, and has an understanding about things that far exceeds her age and experience.  And is she cute.  I enjoyed getting to know Sophie and expect that she and I will always be friends.

One afternoon while there, I took everyone out for a cruise.  Of course, Sophie drove the boat.  No really.  Sophie drove the boat.  You might think it’s ridiculous, but it’s true.  Once she got a handle on the meaning of the red and green markers, and understood that she had to stay between them, she was able to drive.  Sometimes, I would catch her in her exuberance when I would ask her if she could see the marks out in front, and she would say she could, and I would ask her to point them out, and she would point to a place where there clearly was no mark, but it was fine.  As soon as she saw the marks, she was right back on track. 

it didn’t help that she is barely tall enough to see over the top of the wheel.  So, we’re motoring along and I’m talking about something, and Sophie is driving.  Then, of course my mom joins the conversation and then Naomi jumps in.  Sophie, at this point, puts the boat in auto pilot and says, “This really requires all of my focus, and I can’t focus with all this talking going on.”  As we stood there, stumped, amazed, and quieted, Sophie, took the wheel back and turned off the auto pilot and continued to drive.  Yeah, it’s real.  That actually happened.  I just threw my captains bars out the window as I had been supplanted by a 5 year old.  No really, this was fun. 

Ultimately, Jason let me use his car to go to the airport and pick up Brenda.  She was tired and took a long nap, before we got up and joined Naomi up at her place.  She took us out to dinner in Providence which was, in my opinion, one of the best meals we have had.  Great food goes well with great conversation.  The three of us had a great last night in Cranston.

The following day, Brenda and I loosed the lines and headed down the bay to Newport, Rhode Island.  I went there with Jason, Naomi, mom and Sophie, and really enjoyed it.  So I wanted to take Brenda down there.  We only spent a night, but we walked all over town and had a nice time before leaving for Block Island where we are now.

NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND:

Yes, that's a postal worker taking a break out of the sun.

In conclusion, I want to thank Naomi, Jason, Carrie, and Sophie for their outstanding hospitality.  I know we are family, but you all went out of your way for us.  Granted, it’s not every day your nephew/cousin shows up on a boat from California, but we sure appreciate everything you did for us.  Brenda comes from a big family and they are all close.  I have very little family and, for me, it is extra special to spend time together as we did.  And I’m glad I met my cousin Sophie, who, by the way, is getting a little sister in about a month’s time.  Yes, Carrie and Jason are having a second baby.  God bless them all and mazel tov.  Thanks again.  We’ll see you again soon.

Mom, you probably think I forgot to mention just how much I enjoyed playing with you for the last week.  I know you came a long way at a significant cost to visit when we would all be together as we were.  I really appreciate it, and I love the shoes.  If we can’t do Boston again, perhaps we can do Chicago, or Memphis, or Montgomery?  Hopefully it won’t be so damn hot out and you will be able to physically enjoy some time on the boat.  Thanks for everything and all your support.

Ok.  That’s it for now.  Actually, that’s probably more than enough.  We’ll be heading west now expecting that we can make it out of the great lakes before snow and ice shut us down.  I won’t be complaining.  You may recall a long time ago that I said I was so cold that I would never complain about the heat?  Well, now I am so hot that I will welcome the cold.  We’ll see, right?  So here we go.

Stonington, CT

We spent a restful night on the hook in Manhassat Bay.  Good thing, too, as we were very tired from a long day previous.  Our ultimate New England destination is Providence (Cranston) Rhode Island.  There are a couple reasons for this.  First, and foremost, I have family that live there and we were bound and determined to see them.  Second, Brenda and Hannah were flying to California for a brief visit, and had to catch planes.  As luck would have it, there is an airport in Providence.  So, we would be making this work in spades. 

Cruisers know that schedules can prove most unwelcome.  The whole idea of a schedule is anathema to the cruising lifestyle.  The primary and most important reason why should be apparent:  you do not want to do something heroic or stupid so as to make that schedule.  There have been cases of skippers ignoring bad weather, for example, because they have to make a deadline.  All bad.  Fortunately, in our case, making the deadline caused no harm, just fatigue, as we had to run longer hours and distances each day than we might have otherwise.  So, after we leave Cranston, we will definitely slow down and enjoy New England, and not race through it as we have to get there.

We made a stop in a small, but wonderful town called Milford, while passing through Connecticut.  We met some folks who live there when we crossed Mobile Bay several months ago.  You may recall my description of John and Sue C of the vessel "Debrief".  When we met them, they had recently taken delivery of their North Pacific 43 in a town near Galveston, Texas, and were bringing her home.  I recall spotting their AGLCA burgee as they passed by the mouth of Point Cadet Marina in Biloxi, Mississippi, and then following them not so far behind as we left.  It was a simple call on the radio, and we became friends.  We both arrived at Lulu's in Gulfshores, Alabama and actually met.  We then bumped into them a couple times since then.  But, they returned home in May of this year, and we keep on truckin'.  So, it was impossible that I should be headed this way and not stop in to say "hi".  Thus, as we neared, I called to see if they were around, and lo and behold, not only were they around, but they had space available for us to tie up and stay awhile.  Unfortunately, we did not have time to spend due to our "schedule", but we did spend a night so we could do some rather major reprovisioning.  John and Sue were kind enough to allow us the use of a car.  We did not tour the area, but we found the provisions we needed so we could leave the next day.  Thanks John and Sue.  We will make every effort to stop in on our way back towards the Hudson to visit with you again, and hopefully have some time to sit around and chat.

We left Milford on track for the town of Stonington, CT.  This is a place where we could stop for the last night en route to Cranston as it was a little more than half way between Milford and Cranston.  Well, we were very suprised at what we found, and ultimately we stopped and stayed two nights (the second due to weather). 

Our plan was to anchor out.  Well, you know what they say about plans. We ended up taking a mooring.  Which was fine, as I had spent a little time cleaning the mud off the front end of the boat and had hoped to keep the old girl looking presentable for our arrival at the Rhode Island Yacht Club.  Also, there was weather coming and it always feels better being on someone elses professionally maintained and really heavy duty ground tackle.  Furthermore, there was launch service included in the price so we didn't even have to put the dink in the water.  Once we got settled in, we called for that launch and went into town.

The mooring field was run by Dodson's Boatyard, which is actually a full service marina with its own restaurant and bar, shipstore, boat yard, lift, etc.  The folks there were really nice and helpful.  It is sort of on the edge of town, so it was close to everything.  Keep in mind, Stonington is a small town which can be experienced entirely during the One Mile Walking Tour which goes from the town dock all the way to the point past the old lighthouse.  This tour we did the following day.

Stonington is originally a whaling town, but is now mostly the home of a commercial fishing fleet.   Captain Nathanial Parker, one of the discoverers of Antarctica had a home here.  Stonington is also known for a famous battle that took place here during the Revolutionary war.  4 large, rather well equipped and multi gunned English ships positioned themselves outside Stonington.  Their goal was to take the town and steal the resources available on land.  For 4 long and brutal days, they shelled the town.  The town, however, defended itself with two canons, and rifles.  Lots of folks came from the interior to help defend the town.  History tells us that there were no casualties amongst the people of Stonington, but that the same cannot be said for the English, who ultimately left with their tails between their legs, never to return.

New England is very different from anything we have experienced so far.  The architecture is different, the flora and fauna are different and the people are different.  We had a great lunch in town before commencing our walking tour that included real New England Clam Chowder.  However, around here it's pronounced "chowda".  We then walked the town.  We visited the old lighthouse, and walked in and out of numerous shops.  By the end of the day, we were tired and ready to go back to the boat. 

Hannah made dinner that night.  She learned a nice little recipe in a cooking class she took, and carried the key ingredients with her from California so she could make it.  It was very good.  We all crashed early as the final day of our delivery would come tomorrow.  Only 50 miles to go.  50 miles may not seem like much to landlubbers accustomed to travelling that many miles in less than 3/4 of an hour on a nice paved highway.  However, when you travel at 7 knots (a little less than 7 miles per hour) 50 miles is a long day not on a smooth, paved road, but rather on an ever changing, sometimes unpredictable, and always moving, surface.

NEW YORK HARBOR AND THE EAST RIVER

After visiting Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey, we really turned another corner.  No more ICW.  Our next quest would be a visit to several states and cities on Long Island Sound and in New England.  Our plan is to travel to Rhode Island where my aunt Naomi and my cousin Jason and his family live.  They live close to the water in the town of Cranston, Rhode Island, only minutes from Providence.  First, however, we would enter and cross New York Harbor, and then run the East River to Long Island Sound.

As we left our anchorage in Sandy Hook, just off the town of Atlantic Highlands, New Jersey, we could see the Verrazano Bridge which is the gateway to New York Harbor from several directions.

Then, we would pass under this huge bridge.  It's a double decker and has 12 traffic lanes.  It's longest span is 4260 feet.  It opened in November 1964 and is way bigger than the Golden Gate Bridge.  On a daily basis, the bridge accomodates over 190,000 vehicles.

The view of the Battery, or the south end of the Island, Manhattan Island, that is.  If you use your imagination, you can see where the WTC used to be.  It is really something to see.  You can sense the density of the buildings and the millions of people who live and work here.  For my friends in Santa Barbara and Ventura, you have to understand that Manhattan Island is about the same size as either Santa Cruz Island and Catalina Island.  Manhattan is the oldest and most densly populated of the 5 bourroughs.  The Hudson River runs up the west side, and the East River runs up the east side.  The island has a population density of nearly 71,000 people per square mile! 



You can see the Hudson River on the left, the East River on the right.  The small island on the right side of Manhattan, between it and the area known as Brooklyn, is Roosevelt Island.  On the top is the Bronx River.  You can se the split above Roosevelt Island.  That is called Hell's Gate.  You take the right side of the split to enter Long Island Sound.

Entering New York Harbor is not for the feint of heart.  You can very easily get run over by one of these - The Statten Island Ferry.  Note that these vessels have two front ends.  The skipper never has to turn the vessel around when he or she leaves the terminal.  He docks it from one end, then walks to the other end and takes position in the identical wheel house on the other end of the vessel.  These are bigger than they appear in the picture and move very fast.

Clearly, one of the highlights of this cruise was seeing the Statue of Liberty from our own boat.  From the Verrazano Bridge, you can hardly see her.  She is just a small green thing sticking up in the distance.  However, as you get closer, you can see her in fully glory.  She is so much more beautiful than ever before ( I have seen her at least 10 times, but never from this perspective).  It's really something to spend as many months as we have studying the history of this country in terms of early settlement, colonization, and war.  However, to me, this great lady is a symbol of peace, and represents the best parts of this country and its storied heritage; the part of us that believes it is necessary to stand up for those who cannot defend themselves; to preserve and protect liberty and human rights wherever they are threatened; and to give shelter to the poor and those wishing to enjoy the benefits of the way of life so many of us have grown accustomed to and now take for granted.

This is Ellis Island.  At one time, this was THE clearing house for all people coming to America from so many other nations.

And now, we are entering the East River.  The cruising guides suggest that you should reach the mouth of the East River at or near the end of low tide.  In other words, it is suggested that you run the East River on a rising tide.  Boy, if only it were that simple.  I think it is actually best to wait even longer and commence your run up the East River after slack turns to flood above the Battery.  Otherwise, you will have no choice but to dig in and start slugging it up river against the current.  Couple that with the traffic involving ferry boats, barges, tankers, freighters, etc., all in this fairly narrow body of water, and what you have is a very difficult passage. 

Ahhhhh yes, the Brooklyn Bridge.  She is much prettier up close and personal.

Another one of the many bridges on the East River.

 The following several pictures are of the beautiful buildings of Manhattan visible from the East River.

The Empire State Building looks absolutely huge!

This is the final bridge before entering Hells Gate.  By this time, the tide had shifted and we were sizzling along at close to 10 knots as we were heading towards the mouth of Long Island Sound.

Rikers Island.  You do NOT want to go here.

Our anchorage in Manhasset Bay at the end of a long day.

Cruising from New Jersy to Long Island Sound presented a number of challenges including entry and exit from New York Harbor, a transit from the Battery to the mouth of Long Island Sound via the East River, and then the Sound itself.  It was fascinating, challenging, and scenic to all levels and extremes.  It was a goal, and we accomplished it.  In the next blog, I will relate some of the experiences we have had in New England while traveling to and visiting with my east coast family.